Kasa Matter Smart Light Switch: Voice Control w/Siri, Alexa & Google Assistant, UL Certified, Timer & Schedule, Easy Guided Install, Neutral Wire Required, Single Pole, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, 3-Pack

The media could not be loaded. The last time I worked with electricity was in the 6th grade when we learned about circuits with a lightbulb and a 9-volt battery. I watched a couple YouTube videos, read the simple instructions in the box, and dove in.The line and load wires were easy to join with wire nuts. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which on the switch so long as you keep the two line and loads for each switch straight from each other. This wasn't a worry for me since I removed and then installed one switch at a time. Also, one of the switches I removed was a dimmer. I chose to install this single pole switch and lose the dimming because The KS225 Matter dimming switch is slightly deeper than the KS205 single pole and I was worried my wall plate wouldn't be flush.My old switches had a raw copper wire for the ground. You know it's the ground because a) it has no rubber coating (at least in my case) and b) it's not really "connected" to anything, just attached to some metal part of the switch. The smart switches use green for their grounds. Use the supplied wire nuts to join them.For the neutral wire, you should be fine so long as your house was built in 1985 or later. Dumb switches don't use them, but this smart switch requires them. I was a bit perplexed when I opened my 2-gang light plate to see three white wires with one wire nut on them. Two switches, three wires. When I Googled, I found out that multi-gang switches are often on a single circuit. I knew this was true for me, because one breaker switch turned off both of the lights these go to. All three wires have to stay together. Since I was installing two smart switches, I paired my neutral wires with the three (which were tightly twisted together under the wire nut), then screwed the wire nut back on. Gave them a few tugs to make sure they were tight, and I was good to go.Getting all my spaghetti wires put back in the junction box was a task, but I managed. Then I used the new screws to attach the switches to the junction box. Make sure you're using the wide holes for this, otherwise they aren't going to match when you go to do the second one. The wide holes also allow you to slide them side to side as you adjust the spacing for the wall plate to line up.For the wall plate, I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8Z6K2P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_titleThey aren't completely "screwless". There's a plate that you screw to the switches, which was pretty easy to do and lets you get those switches spaced and lined up just right. Once you have them where you want them, there's an access hole to the actual screws that attach the switches to the junction box, so now you can tighten those up. Then you pop on the pretty part of the cover!I gotta say, when we flipped the breaker back on, I did take several steps back just in case, and stayed far away the first time I turned them on after the easy-peasy setup with my Google Home app. No sparks, no fires, just glorious light!If you're confused about the whole "requires a hub for Matter", I'm not really sure what they mean by that. I'm all Google/Android in my house and this makes 4 TP-Link Matter smart devices I've set up now and I don't have a hub of any kind. I don't even install the Kasa or Tapo app, I just scan the QR codes in my Google Home app. 🤷‍♀️Pro tip: the extra stickers that come with the switches... make sure you don't mix them up if you are installing more than one at a time. The Matter code is also on the front of the switch, but that gets covered up by the screw on part of the wall plate I used. If you use the supplied wall plate, there's no extra screw on step, it just pops on and off and you can see the code. For now, I wrote on the back of the sticker which one goes with which switch, but I think I'll pop the gold cover off and just stick them directly to the plate that I screwed in.For someone that isn't usually a DIY-er and has some fine motor movement issues due to a disability, I'd rank this a 2 out of 5 for difficulty. Now that I've done it once, the next ones will be even easier.I'm very happy with my purchase and very happy with myself for accomplishing this!

The Kasa Smart Light Switch (HS200P3) is one of those small upgrades that makes a huge difference. After moving into our new home from a place where we had these installed, I didn’t even think twice—I ordered a couple 3-pack right away. These switches are that good.Once you’ve lived with smart switches like this, it’s genuinely hard to go back to flipping lights on and off manually. They integrate beautifully with Alexa, making it easy to control your lights with a simple voice command. Whether I’m settling in to watch a movie or getting ready for bed, not having to get up to hit a switch is a luxury I didn’t know I needed—until I had it.While these don’t have dimming capabilities, they still deliver a top-tier smart home experience with reliable performance, remote access through the Kasa app, scheduling, and seamless voice control. And honestly, for most rooms, just having on/off control from anywhere is a total win.Super easy to install (as long as you have a neutral wire), and they look sleek on the wall. If you’re starting or expanding your smart home setup, this is one of the best bang-for-your-buck upgrades out there.

One of the best smart home purchases I’ve made recently. The Kasa Smart Switch is stylish, responsive, and adds real convenience to my setup. Just a heads-up: you’ll need to make sure your home has a neutral wire for installation. Once installed, it works flawlessly and definitely enhances the smart home experience.

You can use the app or ask Alexa to turn the light on and off. We have these in several rooms and they’re great. Only downfall is they don’t work on multi switch lights

I previously ordered the HS series light switches and was quite happy with them. I mistakenly ordered this KS series and I am a little disappointed. When setting up the switch, I could not get the app to detect the switch when I identified it as a HK switch, when I tried setting it up as an HS switch using Bluetooth, that worked. I then discovered that I can't control the LED the same on the HK switch as the HS switch. The HS switch allows you to select if the LED on the switch should mirror what is being controlled, or the inverse of what is being controlled. Since I was controlling outside lights that were not readily seen from the switch, I wanted the LED to be ON when the lights were on. This is possible with the HS series, but not the HK. The HK switch only allows the LED to be the inverse of what you are controlling, or off. I understand that there are communication differences between the two series, but why does the control of the LED have to be different? And why doesn't the app recognize the switch when you select the correct type? Long story short, they work, but I don't understand the reason for function differences.

Extremely well built. Excellent choice and will keep buying more… I’m for my 7th. Want to replace all my new ones but not smart. Works perfectly with my Alexa.