Dramm 12353 Heavy-Duty Brass Shut-Off Valve

The only Dramm valve I've used that doesn't leak! All the plastic ones begin leaking in various ways after a couple months. This one has lasted more than 5 years of daily use.My only complaint is that when you screw it onto a hose - the tighter you screw it on the harder the valve is to use. Meaning that the replaceable hose gasket is interfering with the nylon valve assembly. In order for it to be easy to use the lever it has to be semi-loose. I was able to find a sweet spot where the gasket did not leak and the valve lever was easy enough to use.

I have used these for years https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3PBRRF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1 but as most everyone complains about is the screw on the lever backing out regularly until it finally snaps. It works well besides that and I have used 4 of them over the last 6 years.This one, although 2.5 x the price is solid and I don't think it will be an issue where I'm having to tighten all the time. I'm guessing it will last 4 times longer. Also, it's full flow, not 1/2.

If you need a shut-off at the business end of a hose, this is the only one to consider.

Dramm you are the best when it comes to gardening shut off valves, wands, nozzles, etc.

This valve works great. Easy on and off even with wet hands. If you are frustrated with plastic valves that are difficult to turn on and off and break in one season's use, this is the product for you.Some of the criticisms are not well thought out. The "aluminum" ball is designed to work against the nylon surfaces inside the valve body. This is an improvement over the older metal on metal design, not cheaper construction. Brass against brass moving parts wear fairly quickly under constant use. Note that the ball is easily replaced, as testified to by the people who complained about it "falling out." The steel nut that "discolors" is likely an improved strengthening of a critical part, not a cheap substitute. It should be stainless steel, but discoloring and even rusting does not affect its function. If it drives you crazy, replace it with a stainless one from your local hardware store.While people certainly CAN use this valve as a shut-off at the male (delivery) end of a hose, it's size and weight suggest that it is intended to be used between the faucet and the female (entry) end of the hose, most likely with a multiple splitter of some type to allow shutting off some lines while using others. The complaints of the levers getting in the way or catching on things when using the product in ways for which it was not designed are not flaws in the product, but limitations in using it in ways other than primarily intended. Those wanting a shut off at the male (delivery) end of a hose might find the aluminum version of this valve somewhat lighter. Users should note that the on/off lever can be re-positioned 180 degrees, if needed, to avoid hitting against a device to which the valve is connected. Remove the holding screw, change the position of the lever, and replace the screw. There may be problems with using the valve, as intended, in some individual situations, but the manufacturer cannot be expected to anticipate every individual application. One of my faucets was placed much too close to the ground and it caused problems with using the valve as I had hoped. I managed a "workaround," but the problem was the faucet, not the valve.The complaint that the female end has "too few threads" makes no sense. As long as there are sufficient threads to hold the connecting pieces together, the number of threads on the female end of any "garden hose" connector cannot be "too short" in a way that would make the connection leak. The seal is provided by the washer not by the tightening of the threads against each other (as with tapered threads on iron pipe). The only thing that could cause a leak by a female end would be it being so LONG that a standard size male connector could not reach and seat against the washer. A MALE end (perhaps what another reviewer meant?) so short that it can not seat fully against the washer in the female end of a particular hose or other garden device COULD cause leaking. Either problem can usually be resolved by using an additional washer (or washers).Above all, people should follow instructions and know that, with this and any other garden hose connector, you should not over tighten the fitting. Tempting as it is to put a crescent wrench on the hexagon shaped body and get it "really good and tight," don't. You will likely displace the washer into the throat of the male connector and cause the valve to leak. Hand tightening, with the connectors and your hands dry, is always recommended with all these type products. If using a wrench, only tighten the connector until it stops leaking. If the valve does not leak when the faucet is open and the valve is closed, but leaks AT THE FEMALE CONNECTOR when the valve is then opened, the problem is almost always a poorly seated washer. If you have leaks and cannot see a flaw in the casting or a damaged or displaced washer, try placing a second washer in the female connector, and, again, HAND tighten. If the additional washer is not a snug fit, you may need to pry out the washer that comes with the product and place the additional washer under the original one to get the best seal. In short, spending a little time trying to figure out why a seemingly good product is not working properly might reveal that there is nothing wrong with the product, only with the way you are using it (mia culpa). I allow that any product has some defective samples, but judging by the number of positive reviews, I do not believe this is a common problem with this valve.

I love this but I can't use it. All of my hoses are heavy duty real rubber and they have replacement fittings at all hose ends where I have used the re-usable screw on type fitting like this one sold through Amazon: Gilmour Zinc Female Hose Coupling 01FZ. The lever rotation of this Dramm 12353 Brass shut-off is halted by the "collar" of those Gilmour fittings. I see one person reports he/she has ground/cut his Dramm lever to size but I'd rather not do that. I'm really sad. I want this! But, it's of no use to me. Instead, I have ordered a Dramm 22732 Heavy Duty plastic shutoff which uses the same type of lever but appears (according to the picture) to have a much larger diameter body which should put the lever up higher so I think the lever will clear those fittings. (Don't confuse the Dram 22732 heavy duty plastic with the Dramm 12365 standard duty plastic fitting--entirely different. One is big, full-flow, and made of a fiber filled plastic while the other is a small one.) I haven't used this 12353 brass fitting because I must return it, but, it feels so good in my hand and it just beams high quality! The housing is heavy duty machined brass. When I flick the lever with my finger, I must admit the lever feels and sounds like it is not brass. But, it looks like brass. Since I'm returning it, I can't do a scratch test so all I can say is that the lever might be a brass plated metal instead of all brass. The lever certainly appears to be cast and not machined. The "ball" appears to be chromed stainless steel or polished stainless steel. In other words, the water flow bore of the ball looks to be drilled stainless steel while the outside of the ball has a mirror finish. I've never seen stainless steel polished to that sheen. It really looks like a chrome plated ball to me. There are some plastic parts inside, however, and you may not expect that. I didn't. As soon as I looked at the valve I saw the plastic and phoned Dramm. A representative assured me that they will replace those pieces forever if they fail. All I'd have to do is call or email to get the parts. They told me the valve has a lifetime warranty. So, that excited me. That warranty made me shelve any fears I had about chipping chrome or degrading plastic. So, I went to my hose and engaged just a couple of threads only to discover that the lever will not travel past 1/2 flow. My hose fittings interfere. Dagnabbit! Oh, well. Maybe some day I'll get Dramm's hose fitting press so I can use their ferrules and fittings for my hose ends. Then, with those low profile ferrule arrangements, there will be no interference with the 12353 brass shut-off. By the way, if your hose has factory applied crimped/pressed fittings, you will probably have no problems with this 12353 brass shut-off valve. If you have barbed hose fittings held on with a standard worm-screw clamp (radiator hose clamp), you might have interference problems.Update 07/13/2014: The Dramm 22732 heavy duty plastic shut-off valve did arrive and, yes, its larger diameter main body puts the lever up higher and the lever clears the Gilmore fittings. The valve operates smoothly and does not leak when turned on and does not leak when turned off. Longevity? I don't know, but, since Amazon allows editing, you can bet I'll be back to post if something is disappointing. I'll be disappointed if it lasts less than 5 years. I'm not going to push it beyond expected limits by leaving it connected to the hose during freezing weather but, it will certainly be on the hose and in the sunlight for the remaining 8 months or so of the year (Louisville,KY). I do expect it to withstand sunlight's radiant heat, UV, and I expect it to withstand ozone and pollutants.

The gold standard of ship-off valves. I think it will last forever. Works great.