eBoot 6 Pack Mini MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter Adjustable Power Supply Module 24V to 12V 9V 5V 3V

Works awesome!! Best I've ever used!! Great price!!

It worked great when I tested one of them. So I permanently glued it to my setup. And now the potentiometer is not changing the voltage on 3 of them. I am pretty sure I didn’t turn it too far but who knows maybe I applied too much force. So just be gentle I guess. Giving it 1 star because the product was great when it worked. But didn’t even last a few seconds of adjustments.EDIT: I changed my mind. They are working really good now. Yeah the potentiometer can be finicky but it works. By trial and error you can get the right voltage. Just be careful to go really slow and gentle while changing voltage. Don’t push down too hard and turn slowly.

The distance between the output voltage terminals is slightly less than the holes in a standard breadboard. The device works otherwise.

Excellent adjustable buck style voltage regulators.. don't get hot, provide a soild voltage feed with raises and falls that stay within 1 to 2 hundredths a volt.. give a fairly clean output voltage (still need a LC filter if you want very clean wave forms) provides 0.6 to 23 volts from my testing.. able to pull a constant 3.5 amps off it at 16.8v without it getting hot 2.5amps at 20volts gets warm but ok... 3amps at 20v will cook the coil in about 20 minutes.. at 12v I was able to pull a solid 4.2a off it for 2 hours and the temp never got above 97F, 4.5a at 12v smoked it in 7 minutes...If you cook the coil on it it does NOT allow full voltage to pass through (I have had some buck regs fail and allow full voltage to pass through for a few seconds.. I killed two of these intentionally to make sure that when it failed no voltage pass through and on neither one did that happen and that makes me VERY HAPPY. A failure acts like a breaker, it fails it fails and circuit is instantly broken.. I tested this with a O-scope and it had 0ms of full voltage seep when it failed..) These are incredibly cheap and excellent quality.. over preform and stay dang steady.. These are without a doubt the best cost to preformance ratio bucks you can buy...Bucks are not a place to skimp and buy as cheap as possible BECAUSE a failure on a buck that is supplying constant regulated voltage to high dollar electronics and fail and allow unregulated voltage to seep by for even a 1ms can damage sensitive to voltage electronics and ruin your day and make you wish you wouldn't have saved that 30 cents per piece.

It does work for now. I say for now because I needed to drive several 12v relays from a 24v source. After adjusting the first one with my fluke 144 I preset 4 more to the exact same setting. I double checked the voltage output as you should and 1 was 11v 2 were 14v and 1 was correct. After adjusting them all to 12v I powered them down then reapplied power and they all read 12v. I installed them. Let's see what happens.

I’m an Escape Room owner and have used these many times to reduce 12vdc voltage to 9v, 6v, 4.5v to power different escape room technical props/puzzles. I’ve also used to replace battery operated Halloween props like blow mold pumpkins using a 12v power supply and knocking down the voltage to replace the need for batteries. Cat5 wire or speaker wire works well, in a pinch, to accomplish this.As others have mentioned, adjusting voltage is a bit tedious and requires a small (tiny) screwdriver and it is somewhat hard to dial in, but it works with a little patience. Make sure your input power and polarity is correct or you will fire the circuit board. I tend to use a large heat shrink tube to enclose/protect the circuit board after hooking things up.

I rebuilt 3 dome lights on a small boat with new switches and leds. I rebuilt each with two led and a 3 way switch - a 3v 3w and a 10v 10watt. My initial solution used resistors to drop the voltage but the resistors used too many watts so didnt see the efficiency gains i was expecting.I bought these to try a modern efficient led solution.First, it says 3amps but… that must be the max current it can ever see. I tried to drive an incandescent at 12.4v and 1.4 amps and the converter started cycling off after 25 seconds. I believe this is thermal cycling because converter was quite hot. Its thermal limited.I found best way to get this thing dialed is to use the incandescent load, multimeter on outputs then quickly adjust screw to desired voltage. Be warned you need a teensy flathead and must turn screw very very small amounts. I could only get within +/-0.05v.You must adjust quickly before it overheats.In my case i chose to undervolt the large led to 8.7v which was 0.7 amps, bright enough and converter stayed cool indefinitely.For my case these converters were very efficient. I wouldnt use with more than 0.9ampsIm quite pleased with this unit, who knows how long theyll last but power consumption in my dome lights are now much much lower. The low voltage bulb now draws 0.6watts.

I have been using these converters for a while now and so far, they have been great. The potentiometer has it's pros and cons depending on your application but I do like the idea of being able to fine tune the output.CON: However, the main issue with this design is the form factor. The mounting holes will NOT line up with standard 2.54mm breadboard or pcb. You will need to bend some male header pins to mount and it works but it's kind of ugly.They are great for prototyping but I have no idea of long term durability.Just remember to set the potentiometer with a bench supply, multimeter and plastic flathead (I use the probe adjustment screwdriver for my scope) - once connected, if you need to make fine tuning adjustments, turn the potentiometer SLOWLY! If you do not need adjustable output, you might want to find a fixed output alternative.