📡 Elevate Your Connectivity Game!
The Basicolor HDMI USB Extender allows for long-distance transmission of 1080p video and audio signals up to 262 feet using a single Cat5/Cat6 cable. It features plug-and-play installation, supports various operating systems, and includes two USB 2.0 ports for versatile device connectivity, making it ideal for office, classroom, and home theater applications.
Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
Number of Items | 1 |
Item Weight | 0.9 Pounds |
Package Quantity | 1 |
Item Dimensions | 4.33 x 2.28 x 1.02 inches |
Finish Types | Metallic |
Color | Red |
Warranty Type | 1-Year Free Return & Refund via Seller Support |
Input Voltage | 12 Volts |
Current Rating | 1 Amps |
Power Plug | Type A - 2 pin (North American) |
Nominal Power | 12 Watts |
Connector Type Used on Cable | HDMI, RJ45 |
Number of Ports | 4 |
Compatible Devices | Projector, Television, Desktop, USB Storage Devices, Such as USB Flash Disk, Webcam etc., Keyboard and Mouse |
Specific Uses For Product | PC |
R**E
The cheap solution to the "Multiple Setups, one PC" scenario
THE PROBLEM: I wanted to have a separate desk set up in another part of my house, but I did not want to remove my existing desk setup. I also did not want to build another computer (the computer at the original setup is brand new). Since I had used thunderbolt docks in the past, I had figured it would be "easy" to just run a long thunderbolt cable from the computer to the new setup in the other room. I quickly realized that to implement that, it would cost at least $400 (without the dock). Other solutions included a fiber run with an expensive dock. I had wanted a cheaper solution and was willing to give up some features.THE SOLUTION: I had initially purchased a different brand's HDMI USB KVM over Ethernet but found that it did not support USB 2.0 devices. Most devices today need at least USB 2.0 support to work. I returned it and found this set and decided to try it. It worked great. Using a 150ft Cat 8 cable, I was able to see my computer at the new set at 1080p60 and could plug in a USB mic with audio out and a USB 2.0 hub with a Logitech unifying receiver and an Xbox controller. You only need to power ONE of the boxes, and the other box will be powered with the ethernet cable. I have an HDMI Bi-directional switch that allows me to switch the one HDMI signal from my computer between the Original Setup's monitor, and the New Setup's monitor (So only one monitor is active at a time).With this unit, I can get Audio, Video, and Input from/to my computer. I have had no issues with these devices. This device supports display audio through HDMI, but I have never tried/used it. These units get warm, but not any hotter than a typical Wi-Fi router. I have done some casual gaming (Battlefield IV, CSGO, COD, NFS Heat) and it is responsive. I am sure that there is some latency, but I have not felt a difference. If you are reading a portion of text that is small and crowded, you may notice some artifacts (blurring) of that portion of the screen. There also seems to be some form of ghosting that appears when mousing over on a solid color (grey) background. I have not seen any artifacts while gaming. If you plug a device that needs charging or power, like a phone, tablet, or hard drive, I have issues where it disconnects due to excessive power draw. I would recommend plugging those devices directly into the computer instead. The last issue I have seen is where the device will only transmit HDMI signals and not USB. this usually occurs if there is a brownout or a temporary blackout. The solution is just to unplug and plug the unit from power. It is not a common occurrence, but I would make sure that the power brick is attached to the most accessible unit (in my case it was the transmitter TX side).TLDR: This device is worth it! If you want your device in two places at once, this is the best solution. Because the unit encodes and decodes its packets separately from the device, it should be compatible with PCs, Game Consoles, Security DVRs, and more. Also, please use a CAT 7or CAT 8 cable. while not written anywhere, I am sure that most connection issues people have stemmed from them using a lower-class cable. CAT 8 cables are not much more than CAT 5e...
A**S
Excellent Product - High Quality
I purchased this HDMI KVM for a surveillance system. My application covers a distance of 100 feet over CAT5e. Prior to this item, I had tried a few other extenders with no success. I purchased this item because of their claim of lossless and no latency signal for both video and the USB keyboard and mouse connections. The product truly lives up to its claim. Great picture and mouse/keyboard responsiveness.When I first installed the extender, I had it powered up prior to connecting the mouse and keyboard. The mouse didn't work initially, however, once I disconnected the power and reconnected it, while the mouse and keyboard was connected to the extender, everything worked like charm. So make sure to connect all your components to the extender before powering it up.I am very happy with this purchase and highly recommend it as a high-quality HDMI KVM extender.
H**K
Good product, but caveats
I like these units and think they are worth the money and hassle. I have computers in my basement feeding the monitors and TVs in the rest of the house.I've had 6 pair of these in use in my home for 7 or 8 years. During that time I've replaced at least 6 pair and learned some things. Their weakness appears to have to do with power supplied to the USB circuitry. The common failure mode is for USB to quit working while the video continues to work fine. Here is what I found to help extend their life.1. Replace the power supply with one rated for 3 amps. I was replacing power supplies quit often until I used a better one. I've had pairs that won't work with even the new power supply from a new set of extenders, but worked fine with a 3 amp unit.2. If you are going to have more than a keyboard and mouse connected to a unit, use a powered USB hub.3. Move the power supply for the pair from the transmitter to the receiver. I thought it might help to move the power source to the location that draws the most power. I don't know if this actually helped or not.I just replaced two pair feeding a dual monitor setup which has a USB scanner, printer, label printer, keyboard, and mouse. Those were the only two failures in the past 4 years.
A**.
It works!!
I'm so excited when I got it to work! It was worth the money and sweat and attic crawling.I already had cat5e wire running from my router to the TV, and it worked fine for internet but didn't work with this. I tested it with brand new spool of cat6 cable and it worked. So I just had to replace the old wire which was an ordeal because my attic isn't meant for humans save Spiderman. But I managed it by duck taping the new wire with the old wire and pulling it up and over through the attic. I almost lost consciousness and died from the heat and hyperventilation from contorting my body through inhuman obstacles (crappy crappy builders!) but it was so worth it.The specs say that it's supposed to work with cat5 and cat5e, so I was disappointed that it didn't work. However the cat5e wire that I had up there was excessively long and old, so that could be the reason. Word to the wise, if you are planning to place new wire, test it with the wire you are planning to use first, before you do any attic crawling or wall fishing. Installing the Cat6 was the hard part, but adding this device was super easy and it works like a miracle.
S**M
Won't last long. Dead in about a year.
I was using this device for a home automation setup with a remote touch screen. I had Cat5e to the location that I wanted the display, but didn't want to have the computer sitting there with it. This seemed like the perfect solution! USB and HDMI remote KVM back to where the core machine is located. It worked well initially, for about 3 months, then the issues started. When I would re-boot the Mini PC (Source) the image wouldn't restore... blank screen until you unplugged the HDMI and plug it back in at the source machine.Then, it started to get some light noise in the image periodically. This didn't happen too often, so I just dealt with it. Finally, the power supply died. Should have output 12v DC, but sat at 1.8v when tested, so I replaced the power supply with another unit rated at a higher current... back up and running! Unfortunately, it only worked for about a week, then nothing would connect or get image again. I've tested a couple different power supplies and they are functional... so it looks like these have a problem with the power / board internally. Maybe they would work for light use? I don't know, so order at your own risk.
Trustpilot
1 week ago
2 months ago