KODAK Slide N SCAN Film & Slide Scanner Digitizer with 5” LCD Screen, Quickly Convert Negatives & Slides to Digital 22MP JPEG Photos, Compatible with 135, 126 and 110 Film & Slides

I'm so happy with this little device! As soon as it arrived I tested a 35mm color negative. It's really simple to use, as soon as you set up the scanner and slide in the negative, you can see the image immediately on the screen. It's so enjoyable and quick and the quality exceeded my expectations. You do need to buy a 32GB SD card or 32GB SDHC card. It will not work with larger GB or with SDXC cards.Setup:Plug in the USB-C/USB cable (provided) into the scanner. USB-C side goes into the scanner, and the USB side goes into to your PC or to a wall adapter. Insert the SD card in the back of the scanner (right next to the USB-C slot). Open the hinged slide holder and insert the adapter for 135mm, 126mm or 110mm depending on what film you are using, and then snap it closed again. The manual shows you how to align the adapter inside the hinged holder. If you are scanning slides you won't need an adapter, you will just need the slide holder. Insert the slide holder into the slot on the right side of the scanner. The arrow on the slide holder should be pointing toward the scanner. About an inch will still be visible, sticking out of the slot. This is where you insert the film.How to use:Press the power button (it must be plugged in to PC or wall using the USB cable to power on). Press the large OK button on the front to select film type. Use right/left arrows on the top of the machine to select film type and then click OK. Select the film size and click OK. Make sure your film is right side up, and slide the negative into the slide holder on the right side of the scanner. Smile when you see your image on the screen! You will need to adjust the film so that the image is centered on the scanner, and then press the large OK button again. Slide the film further in until you can see the next image. Press OK to scan. Once you can't push the film in any further, you can insert the next piece of film and it will push the first one through and out the left side. I found a few times where the film was curved and wouldn't go in past the first image. If this happens you can remove the slide holder from the scanner, insert the film into the holder while gently pressing down on the first image. It should slide through and you can reinsert the holder into the scanner with film already in it. It takes about 2 seconds for the image to scan.Transferring photos to your PC. You have 2 options - you can remove the SD card and insert it directly into your laptop/PC if it has a slot. If not you can connect the scanner to your PC using the USB cable (provided) while the SD card is still in the scanner. This will bring up a USB device on your PC and you can see all of the images. They are given file names based on the order you scan them. I have scanned over 1,000 images on the SD card so far.Quality: The quality of the images is better than I expected. For sure up to 8x10 prints would be high quality, I'm attaching a scanned image so you can see. Also please note in the scanned image I didn't center the negative properly. If you are moving too quickly through the images this can happen, so it's good to view the images periodically in case you need to rescan anything. Make sure you keep the film dust free, and also make sure the scanner is dust free. It comes with a cleaning brush that can be inserted into the slot where the slide holder goes to clean out dust. Do this with the soft part of the brush facing down. I didn't do this at first and some of the images ended up with some marks from the dust.

I am so so happy! I decided to digitize my dad’s slides from the 1950s-1970s. It is a Father’s Day gift for him. I was uncomfortable sending the slides to a third party and the price for hundreds of slides adds up quick. I researched how to do it for myself and the best method to do it. I chose this Kodak version because it received great reviews and I could easily push the slides through one by one. What fun! So easy to set up. Just make sure you get the correct sd card. The viewing screen brings out the best colors of each slide. You click on the OK button and push another slide through. Perfect! I connected the scanner to a computer and was able to see every photo now digitized to the sd card. You can even connect to a TV for viewing. These slides were thrown into boxes collecting dust for decades and yet digitized they are vibrant. I will be sharing these with every family member. Truly, such fun seeing family images I didn’t even know existed. A must buy for anyone wanting to ‘do something’ with old family slides!

Before I get into the details, let me say that if all you need is to get your negatives to digital and you don’t need a lot of fancy control over your image, this is a good scanner to use. Once you get the hang of it (doesn’t take long), you can whip through a roll of negatives in not much time. I’m happy with this purchase as I don’t need anything beyond a basic scanning device. Now for the details.Edit December 2023: I've attached a few scans to show you the resolution. I believe I scanned all these at 22 megapixels. The kitchen & Renaissance Fest are negatives from the 80s, the group of 4 guys are clearly from the 1970s LOL, and the sunset is from mid-90s. These would have included some level of color balancing attempt by me, so they had light to moderate color cast. Hopefully they upload at good resolution so you can see that for old negatives, they look pretty decent.You manually feed negatives through this machine but so long as you have a full strip of negatives, pushing/pulling the strip though the machine is easy.I’m pretty sure that this isn’t a scanner in the way you would think. There’s no mechanical scanning sound which must mean that it is taking digital photographs of your negatives and slides. I don’t have any idea if that’s better or not, I’m just pointing it out.Be sure to set/check the date this is set to each time you use it. It will help you enormously in deciding what’s what as you copy off scans from the SD card.Slides show as very yellow-green on the screen. The slide itself is nothing like that color. Slides did not stay in place well in the tray (it’s possible, I guess, that the cardboard shrank since it’s so old) so I had to be really careful placing the slide in the tray and placing the tray in the scanner.Poorly cut negatives —ones that are a strip of two or three photos—are still workable in the 35mm tray. I’ve even managed to get single negatives in there good enough to get a scan.22 megapixel scans take 3 seconds, 14 megapixel scans take 1.5-2 seconds each.Whenever you turn it on, you have to select the format you’re scanning. However, if it is the same as the last time you did it, it remembers each of your previous choices so all you have to do is hit OK rather than re-select them.One thing I wish this scanner had was a reset button for all color and exposure adjustments you’ve made so you can start at the default when you want to.To record what the photos are of (Christmas 1978, for example) I wrote it on a small piece of paper and scanned the info at 14 megapixels. You can also change the date on the scanner to reflect the photo dates and that info will be recorded as the date on the file itself but that’s a lot of work.With each image it seems the scanner is giving its best evaluation of the exposure for the negative. Generally it does a good job. The manual brightness and RGB adjustments you can make are crude (not fine adjustments) and not very predictable in how they operate. Many times I’d change brightness one notch in a direction, decide it’s not good then go back to the original position and the image won’t look the same as it did before I made the adjustment. I had to go one over then go back one to get where I’d started. RGB adjustments on black and white don’t make a lot of sense either. For example, adjusting the red channel one notch will sometimes suddenly turn a black and white image from a bit milky to very contrasty. RGB adjustments on color can sometimes shift color drastically (though rarely—I’m not sure what conditions it has to be under to do this weirdness but it it didn’t do it often). Always try scanning each of your negatives in the default settings before adjusting. Sometimes I one shot needed adjustment while the next shot did not, and it had turned out the next shot looked good in the default RGB settings.The problem that others have mentioned of it not scanning the entire frame is my experience too. You lose about 1or 2% of the image mostly on the sides, so you have to frame it and decide which area you’re going to lose on the sides.110 film: what you will be scanning is a lot of border around the 110 size frame. The scan doesn’t adjust for the smaller size, so it’s basically like scanning the size of 35mm but the image only takes up maybe 60% of the scanned frame.I haven’t scanned 126 film yet, so I can’t comment on that. That will come much later. I’ll try to update when I get that far.

I'd been thinking of getting this scanner for over 2 years, but kept putting it off. I have a ton of fairly old 35mm slides that needed digitizing for inclusion into my current online portfolios (I'm a designer). Once the unit came in, I began scanning right away. This unit works like a breeze and I'm able to upload files to my computer right after scanning. I also have a ton of negatives and those scan easily too. The quality and resolution of the scans is great, and now, everything in my 1985 -1995 inventory will be part of my current digital portfolios. I highly recommend getting one of the carry storage cases designed for this Kodak scanner.