DROK Blue~Tooth Board, 12V Audio Receiver Blue~Tooth Module DC 5V-12V Portable Wire~Less Electronics Stereo Music Receive Circuit Chip with Micro USB Port for Headphone Speaker Home Sound System DIY

I am a purchasing consumer reviewing a product I purchased. I am not receiving anything for posting this.5-stars easy. No complaints, I bought twoSome of the reviews below state this board is a 24-35V device. It uses a GH27G / AZ1117E power input chip, that's only designed for 13V max. I STRONGLY DOUBT this device can withstand over-voltage by a factor of 2x-3x. The Amazon product description seems correct at 12V. Disclaimer: I only power mine with a standard 5V micro USB cable. I haven't actually tried it at higher voltages.[5/8/25] 2 Month review.I stand by everything posted below. After 2 months this BT board has been absolutely bomb-proof reliable. I use it every night, all night to listen to relaxing music and fall asleep. The BT radio has never dropped out or dis-connected from my old iPad. The analog side of the circuit has been just as reliable. Outstanding.[3/21/25]After several more days/nights of critical listening I stand by all my initial impressions below. I don't know if its component burn-in or what but something slightly "bloomed". The sound image is more layered now compared to a Y-RCA cable straight out of the ipad headphone jack. The harmonic content surrounding notes, room acoustics and ambience in recordings seems slightly more distinct now. The sonic differences between L/R Multi-tracked instrumentation are a little bit clearer and easier to hear. There also seems to be more energy at the extremes of the sonic spectrum. Below ~45Hz is bloomier and more resonant. Above ~6K seems more delicate, articulate and refined. The difference is very slight mind you, maybe an ~8% perceptional difference (if that). It's (honestly) probably just my hearing perception adjusting and picking it up for the first time.This is my finding with all my headphones, none of which are commonly known to be high-detail revealing. I am going to dust off my old AKG K701 and Koss A250 today and give a listen with those. Those are my most analytical / accurate headphones. FWIW I am not a 100% believer in electronic component "burn-in". I know for me personally my hearing perception sensitivity can vary greatly. I am a STRONG believer in blind A/B listening tests, and that's really the only way to validate my impressions. The eyes can strongly influence what the brain / ears hear. I attached a pic of my electrical tape mod to help dim the blue flashing LED.The instructions have an illustration with headphones plugged directly into the TRS output jack. I tried that and it was awful. Probably a gross impedance miss-match with lower Z cans and IEMs, and a severe power deficiency with my 300 ohm HD650. I would only use this as a line-level device.[3/13/25]I power with a micro-USB plug. Plug into my Larocco PPA headphone amp with a cheap RCA "Y" cable. I use an ipad as BT source for ALAC and 320k mp3 files. Absolutely no issues what so ever after 3 nights of critical listening. The circuit is "black background" silent. No hiss, no hum, no clicks/pops or digital artifact noises of any kind regardless of ipad volume setting. No radio frequency noise / interference either. Sound quality seems to be well balanced no offending boost or cuts to the sonic spectrum. It is a very "dry / uncolored" sounding circuit when used as a line level device. I A/B compared it with a plain "Y" cable out of my ipad... and I really could not hear any significant sonic differences. These impressions were made using sennheiser HD650, Koss KSC75, Grado HF-1, Truthear Zero Red, JBL T110. Frankly I am pleasantly surprised. BT connectivity / reliability has been solid... as reliable as the cheap RCA-Y cable it replaces.I bought two of these so I could use my headphone amps with BT. This will help reduce some of the wires and clutter on my desk and nightstand. I will probably mount one in a small project box and just use a micro-USB plug for power. The second one I think I can squeeze in the second amps enclosure, and tap into the 12V DC part of the circuit.The blue LED is CRAZY bright at night. I cover it with a small piece of black electrical tape and it helps. I wish it were the opposite, solid ON when connected to BT and flashing when waiting to be paired. But that's not nearly major enough to take away a star.Reliability of course remains to be seen.I will post dated updates to this review as my opinions change.

Bought this board to add BT to my vintage 70s 8-track car stereo. It is not specified on the reviews or the specs, but it has a switcher that automatically bypasses the sound from the input to the output when BT is disconnected from your device. So my 8 track stereo functions 100% as original but when I connect my phone, it automatically switches to BT and I stream music. I achieved this by intercepting the preamp output going to the volume control on the car stereo. It takes a bit of research and knowing how to read a schematic but it is a great solution for a DYI for very little money.

Original board died 24 hours after installing but the vendor promptly responded and replaced. Used this item and permanently tapped into the head unit wiring harness (AUX feature) of a 2008 Jaguar XKR to allow phone music streaming. Item works flawlessly with quality audio. The only issue is that my iPhone does not auto connect so the device has to be selected each time you enter the vehicle.

Used it with 2 rcas wired on 12v power to plug into the av source on this era appropriate radio on my g35. Works great , no static or hisses

It looks very nice and I'll be able to give a better review after I set it up to be tested.

Works great. What I like about this is the aux port on the module. When the module is unpaired, the aux port is connected to the output. Exactly what I needed.

Despite some other reviewers claiming otherwise, this Drok Bluetooth receiver must be powered from 12 volts DC or less. The voltage regulator IC used is AZ1117E which the spec sheet says has a maximum input rating of 13 volts. Amazon doesn't allow links so you can search yourself for the DIODES inc spec sheet.I used a resistor and zener diode to drop my higher DC voltage down to 12.A blue LED on the board flashes to indicate the connection status. I enclosed the receiver in a wooden box so added an external LED so I could still see the status. Needed to add a transistor and a couple resistors to do this. No buttons or switches are needed to manage the receivers' connection, however the receivers' bluetooth name also can't be changed so tough luck if you have more than one of these!No comment about the audio quality; it seems good but that wasn't important in my application.

I bought a 200W Bluetooth amplifier last year to make a portable speaker and it turned out great. I decided I wanted a 2.1 channel amp this time so I could include a small subwoofer in the build so I picked this model. The terminals for the left and right (and sub) speaker wires are VERY small, speaker wire of any substantiate will not work. (I’m talking you need 20 gauge or smaller). The subwoofer output is also pretty disappointing. Being able to control the frequency it delivers is helpful but it still seems to just be playing normal left right sound rather than bass.There were basically zero instructions included with this kit (what the hell is this heat sink supposed to attach to? And I’m supposed to use this thick piece of insulating adhesive to attach it??? That’ll prevent any heat transfer) and there was also no power cable included so you better pray you have a plug available that will fit.Oh well, I suppose you get what you pay for.