Absolute TW-600 600 Watts MAX High Efficiency Dome Tweeter with Built-In Crossover (Pair)

for what it is, it does it's job. No it isn't the highest of quality, Yes there are much better products out there BUT for the money you really CAN NOT beat it. They are cheap plastic with a cheap tweeter in them, however they pick up the highs in just the right place to round out the sound. I would buy them again if I need another set of tweets. The mounting options are nice, easy to install.

Not loud and super brittle would not buy again just spend the money on something that cost little more

These tweeters deliver alot of bang for the buck. They are crisp and do not distort with higher volume settings. The passive capasitors do a fine job at filtering out mid and bass frequencies. This is a smart purchase for anyone looking to upgrade their car audio system on a tight budget.

Good tweeters, One was broke when I received it Though.

So I bought these tweeters because I know a LOT about speakers. I build them from scratch. To clarify: I build the cabinets from scratch, based upon my own designs- which are far from arbitrary. Cabinet design itself is very mathematical. I pick the specific drivers (the speakers themselves outside of the cabinet,) and I design and build the crossovers. The crossover is the electronics inside the speaker that tell the speaker cabinet which speaker to send the bass to, which to send the middle range sounds, like vocals to, and which speaker to send the high notes to- that would be the tweeters.I've built speakers no bigger than a rubix cube, and I've built speakers it takes three grown men to carry. I've built them with one driver inside that can handle high, middle, and low sounds all by itself. I've built 3 way speakers with a woofer, a midrange and a tweeter to handle high, middle and low sounds, two way speakers to handle high and low and sort of "sharte" the middle range sounds. Those are the most common. One, two or three speakers per cabinet. And I've gone totally unconventional and built speakers with two huge woofers, four midranges and two very powerful horn tweeters in them. There's a new trend that is very popular to put two very strong midrange speakers in a cabinet with a nice tweeter, and no woofer. The two midrange speakers act in tandem for really low sounds to substitute the woofer. Those are great. I've built those as well.All together, I've probably designed 60-70 different speaker cabinets. Some stay designs and never get built. Some I build over and over and over. I am involved in online communities of builders as well. We trade designs all the time and bounce ideas off each other, alert each other to sales for drivers and pieces of gear builders need, etc.In all the hundreds of speakers and designs I have seen for high end, really nice spoeakers, I have never seen one thing. In all the Professional (like concert PA) speaker designs I hae made, and seen- along wioth all the professional PA speakers I have seen, repaired, used and discussed with other professionals, I have never seen one thing. In all of the most powerful, gut busting, rib cage shaking speakers I have ever read about, heard or laid eyes on, there has never, ever, once existed a less than two inch in diameter tweeter that can handle SIX HUNDRED WATTS.The biggest speakers I have ever made for home use were made to be driven by a 1000 watt amplifier. That's for two speakers, so immediately divide that by two: 500 watts per speaker. Now think about where MOST of that electric energy MUST go: the woofer. It's the biggest. It moves the most and the very basic laws of science and nature will tell anyone that it takes more energy to move something bigger compared to something smaller. Remember, all speakers do: move a diaphragm forward and backward in order to push air and create vibrations. The more surface area pushing the air the hardest, the louder it gets. That's over simplifying, but it's true. If you put two ten inch woofers in proper cabinets in a regular, middle class home sized living room, and assuming everything was designed as a three way (woofer, midrange & tweeter) and made properly for each cabinet to handle 100 watts, it would be too loud. No one would like that loud ANYTHING in a regular living room. It would be painful. It would immediately scare a suburbanite that the neighbors would be bothered. 100 watts is LOUD. 50 watts is LOUD. 25 Watts can get loud if you want it to- in that same room, with those same cabinets.All that said, you DO want a bit more power than you'll ever use for a few reasons. The most important one is that you never want to turn your amplifier all the way up. Everyne has done thisd once and knows that it crackles and distorts. Because it was never made to do that. So if you want LOUD, and it's for a living room in the suburbs, sure, get 100 watts / speaker. That's what most home theater receivers offer. You never turn it all the way up, because halfway is plenty loud, right?End lesson.Now relook at this product. I HAD to buy it soley because right in their title description it says "600 WATTS MAX HIGH EFFICIENCY!!"S I X H U N D R E D W A T T S ? ? ! ? ! ?A TWEETER?A Tweeter that pushes six hundred watts. On it's own. For $7.What kind of black magic is this?So I knew I was wasting $7, but I wanted to blow them up. I wanted to take one and hook it up to an amp dialed in at 600 and let it loose. I imagined a projectile cap flying across the room, or sparks, or some crazy buzzing that could be heard for 1/4 mile. I imagined smoke and maybe some flame. Nah. Not that impressive. It just crackled and went quiet- forever. The 600 watts melted some of the wires inside the tweeter and that was that.Lying about wattage isn't new. It was a BIG thing when I was in high school to use your trunk for amplifiers and woofers in custom enclosures, roll around town and bump Wu-Tang at levels that made screws within the car parts to shake loose. People were buying two and four extra car batteries- made for huge pickup trucks- and changing out their alternators for ones I can only assume go in semi trucks just to power these things. And the wattage fabrication began. It got so bad that companies were claiming their new woofer could handle 2000 watts!! People would buy four of them and then say they had an 8000 watt stereo system. The car amplifier market played this game as well. 5000 watt amplifiers! 10,000 watts! Some guy would put fpour of those in his SUV and call it a 40,000 watt stereo. Concert festivals with 80,000 attending do not use 40,000 watt PA systems.So how do you tell who is lying and who isn't? There is a standard. Once people were called out on the wattage lies, they decided instead of admitting it, they would make up different kinds of watts! That's like saying there are different kinds of the number 20. Watts is a scientific / mathematical measurement that is absolute. It is not up for debate on what 50 watts means. There are tools that can measure watts. This is not subjective, but somehow, some way, the manufacturers of these products made watts subjective by giving them different names. My favorite was "Listening Watts." or how about "Distance Watts?" "Echo Watts." Travelling Watts." "System Watts." That was big. "System Watts! 2500 SYSTEM WATTS, EVERYONE!" Sounds official. So to put a stop to this, they started to put the actual acronym for REAL wattages on reputable products. There are more factors that go into how many watts a speaker can produce, like how many ohms the speaker is rated for, as well. And the companies who wanted to be honest and accurate would list their amplifiers power maximums at 4 ohms, 6 ohms, 8 ohms and so on. So how do you tell? RMS. RMS is short for Root Mean Square. It's a math / physics equation that is REAL MATH and REAL science telling you what a speaker or amp can handle with the lowest amount of distortion. Go above that wattage and it starts to sound funny. That's distortion. Go all the way to double that number and you are maxed out and full of distortion, but not at the breaking point. One more watt can break an amp or speaker, so you want to stay as close to or UNDER the RMS as possible.So if you want to know the REAL wattages, the initials you are looking for are: RMS. The RMS watts is the real number. The maximum a speaker or amp can handle is typically double the RMS number, and still the number advertisers seem to favor. So you'll see 200MAX WATTS!! That could be right. But you never want to turn it all the way up, remember? 200 MAX WATTS is the point at which it won't break, but 201 WATTS will blow it up. 100 watts RMS is LOUD. If your music or movie dips above the 100 mark during an explosion or a really loud sevtion of a tune, it can handle it. Not for extended periods, but it won't break until that "Max" range is met.So. These "600 watt" tweeters. How many watts are they in RMS?FOUR.4.Not Four Hundred. Four. As in 1,2,3,4!4 watts RMS.8 watts MAXWhich is about how much power a factory car radio would push into a tweeter in a car door. And guess what? That's about appropriate.So next time you buy speakers, ask, What's the RMS rating?And remember the person you are asking might live in a world where 600 means 4.

Installed these tweeters in my 88 Honda Civic and was very impressed by how much they changed the overall sound quality of my old junker. Definitely worth the $6!

They work really well considering the price. I used these with a set of MA components through a passive cross over, they are pretty crisp. I gave it 4 stars because 1 of the backings came off, just glued it back together.

Tweeters came in cheap plastic,and were made out of cheap plastic and one sounded like a out of tune fm station. The other tweeter did not work at all. Fair warning- total junk.