Oregon 4.0 x 300mm Mulching Brush Cutter Blade, 3 Tooth Shredder Strimmer Blade for Thick, High & Dense Vegetation, Fits All Brushcutters Including Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna, Echo & More (295508-0)

This is an invaluable addition to any decently powerful strimmer/brushcutter. I bought this to clear 500 metres x 1 metre of roadside verge that was being squeezed by brambles, nettles, hogweed (make sure you know your hogweeds before annihilating them willy-nilly!), buddleia and gorse. In my head I'd set aside a week of days to get this done: It took me six hours. Cleanup? What cleanup? There was nothing left.In the eight months since I've used this all over the site and to be honest it's considerably smaller than it used to be, but it's scythed into more rocks than I can count - yes, I know this takes a toll on the strimmer but sometimes, regrettably, you're forced to adopt a 'time is money' attitude.Let me give you an example of how this can pay for itself incredibly quickly and many times over. I had to clear the house of a literal tonne of ivy, wisteria and climbing rose. The resulting pile was roughly the volume of two long wheel base high-sided Ford Transits, so I was looking at a choice between a skip (and a day of lopping and jumping up and down), a fire that could be seen from space, 50 trips to the tip or shredding without cessation until the last twinkle of hope leaves my eyes. Well, I attacked the mountain with the Oregon head and in one pass had reduced it to the size of a c.1974 Fiat 500. After just an hour, four passes and the insertion into the proceedings of a trusty rake, all that remained was the vague impression of a small tree that had had the misfortune of finding itself at the epicentre of a glancing collision between the earth and a small moon. Amazing!If you've got growing stuff that's under an inch thick and needs destroying, get one! CAVEATS AS FOLLOWS....DON'T USE NEAR WINDOWS, CARS, ELECTRICITY LINESDON'T GET ONE IF YOU HAVE A SMALL URBAN GARDEN, NEIGHBOURS IN EARSHOT AND ONLY WANT TO TRIM THE GRASS - THIS IS FOR CLEARING A PATH THROUGH SECONDARY RAINFORESTMAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT'S IN THOSE BUSHES BEFORE YOU FRAG THEMDON'T USE NEAR PEOPLEDON'T, FOR GOD'S SAKE, USE WHILST WEARING A STRING VEST, SHORT SHORTS AND FLIP FLOPS (MINIMUM OF SAFETY SHOES, TOUGH TROUSERS, GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION - THOUGH JUST GET A PROPER CHAINSAW HELMET AND VISOR )IF WORKING IN AREAS WHERE THERE ARE MANY SMALL TO MEDIUM SIZED STONES, YOU MAY WANT TO CONSIDER THE SORT OF PROTECTION FAVOURED BY CRICKETERS (I HAVE CHILDREN ALREADY, THANKFULLY, SO MY INJURIES CAN'T BE TERMED 'DARWINIAN', BUT YOU GET THE POINT!)

I use this with an Einhell petrol brushcutter, bought to clear the densely overgrown garden at my late parents' house. It utterly destroys any vegetation in its path, not just cutting it down, but reducing it to a fine mulch. It takes a bit of practice, and i find you have to use it a few different ways depending on the growth. Tall grass needs a sweeping motion a bit like a scythe. Brambles, just move over them slowly. Then for anything on the ground like the stumps of brambles or grass clumps, drop the blade down on them. A couple of passes reduces it all to nothing. Hitting rocks or concrete causes it to bounce off and so far no damage to the blade (but usually a chunk of rock is missing). Please make sure you have a guard on the blade and you wear protective gear as debris is sent flying at high speed.

GREAT BIT OF KIT DOES A GREAT JOB DESTROYING THE BRAMBLES.

Using on a Makita DUR365. You can really hear the blade thrashing the air and this is reflected in the battery life, which was surprisingly short. With a circular saw style blade I can cut forever in comparison. However, you need to keep carbide teeth from hitting the ground / rocks, with this blade you can take liberties.This is a really heavy blade (even the thinner option) and it absolutely destroys anything soft. Harder wood that can bend away tends to bounce off a bit though. If you get the motion just right, it does a good job pulverising but I found with tall nettles, brambles etc. it's not very practical to hit them with an up-down motion and I just swept sideways then went back over it on the ground to mash them up a bit.Not a bad option but I'm going to try another style to see if it lasts longer while being roughly as effective.

Stihl FS90. Had about 30 yards of 2 yard wide by 1 yard high thick brambles. (For yard read metre if you want!)Anyway, previously have used line, single stihl blade and also the tripple stihl blade with sort of success with the metal blades.This blade was a different ball game and saved so much time.Attaching the blade was simplicity itself with no complications on my strimmer. Obviously you have to take care as you do with all metal blades to ensure it is seated properly!With an up/dowm motion to knock the brables to the ground followed by a sweeping motion along the ground, the whole job was done in about an hour and what a great job it did as well with the very thick stemmed brambles.Delighted!

Really pleased with this it cuts heavy old brambles and scrubby blackthorn with ease. I've been starting at head height and then working down through the growth to ground level, very effective. It's a brutal tool that throws material some distance so I would suggest face and eye protection and well padded clothing!

The title says it all, at least 5 x times more efficient that a flat blade. Worth every penny.

I've owned one of these Oregon mulching blades for about 9 years fitted to my Stihl FS400 Clearing Saw/Brush Cutter. Its done hundreds of hours of work clearing bramble, bracken nettles and undergrowth around the farm and I wouldn't be without it. Mine is just genuinely worn out and so it bought this as a replacement. Rather curiously, my original Oregon mulching blade fitted my brush cutter without the need for any adapters or bushing. With this one, you do need to use the supplied adapter/bushing to reduce the diameter of the bore. Painting it red is a really nice touch and makes it so much easier to see where the blade is in the undergrowth. The only negative comment I have is that the adapter is such a tight fit that I had to "drift" it (hammer and suitably sized socket) to get it to sit flush in the blade and then had to drift both on to the arbour of the brush cutter. Some might think that is not a bad thing but it could make blade changing slightly more problematic out in the field.