Oomoo 25-1A:1B Mix by Volume Tin Cure Silicone Rubber - Pint Unit

This stuff is freaking AWESOME! Was super skeptical since I've never done mold casting like this before. I've done fiberglass and carbon fiber, but those are pretty straight forward. And especially since I was doing it on a coated surface that I couldn't find any information on whethe or not it would stick to it. So, this stuff can beapplied over a Plasti-Dip sprayed item without it sticking to it or anything, so it worked perfect for what I needed! Making shroud extenders for a projector retrofit, and needed to make a reverse of the vacuum form piece I already made. Sprayed it with Plasti Dip as a spot evener, and this stuff didn't stick to it or even tried to pull it of. Sweet!I was worried I would get the mix ratio wrong, or mess up a step, but it's really not hard, but this stuff is a chore to mix by hand.Oh!BE SURE once you've poured A and B together and mixed that you pour into a second cup, and remix and scrape the sides and get every bit you can because the different parts WILL stick to whatever you're mixing in. When I scraped out cup #1 into cup #2 there were still parts of blue and green not mixed all the way, so it's a definite MUST.A++, 5 stars, 100% what ever, I'm impressed , and have just have to buy more for the 2nd headlight.(wasn't sure how much I was going to need, so just ordered the one) Going to also be buying their smooth cast 300 for the actual cast piece once these puppies are all set up

I used this material to make a silicone mold for a musket part that I wanted to have cast out of steel. To do this I had to make a wax master. I used Solid Edge CAD software to design the master, and then used it to scale the part up 3% to account for shrinkage of the steel. After filling and sanding the master smooth, I was able to pour a silicone mold around it. I used vegetable oil as a mold release agent.The silicone worked very very nice because I was not able to easily make a two-part mold for this part, and this part has undercuts that would make it hard to remove from a rigid mold. But due to the flexible nature of the silicone, once the wax solidified I could stretch the opening enough for the part to be pulled out, and then it returned to its original shape for more pouring.Being 2 parts equal volume to mix, it's very easy to mix this "by eye" without measuring. I had enough silicone to make 3 molds as seen in the picture.Few problems with bubbles, and the material conforms closely to the master and picks up all details. Sets up fast enough that you can use your mold the same day you cast it. I used a palm vibratory sander to vibrate the mold casing while the silicone was still liquid to help shake out any bubbles.Because I did not scale up the first master enough to account for shrinkage of both the steel and the wax, I am having to do this over again with a larger master. But I am buying this product again for round two!This was my first ever attempt at making a silicone mold and casting wax in it.I highly recommend this product.

Was a mess, hard wasted a bunch on three pours and ruined several of my molds see pics attached stuck to area of mold would not come out had to throw away molds and all

Found out that resin 3d prints do not like platinum cure silicone. People recommended the tin cure. I was on a time crunch and rolled the dice with this product.I got a good batch with no leaks delivered next day. This stuff is thick. Use a a flat screwdriver to mix the parts well before you mix them together. I broke off a wooden stir stick in one of the compounds.Make sure you stir the compounds together extremely well. Otherwise they won't set right.Next day it was solid and perfect. It did stick to my glass base plate so use a scraper for that.Overall very good buy for resin 3d printer parts.

The tin-based cure makes for very detailed molds on a variety of materials (PLA, wood, SLA resin), but degassing with a vacuum chamber is a must as bubbles are rampant throughout the details of the mold.Also, you can't pour epoxy resin casts as the chemicals that make the tin-cure resilient (IPA) cause cure inhibition in the resin.

It was easy to use and mix. The cure time is super fast! It's thicker than other silicones I've used, and this is the first time I was able to cast a mold without the silicone leaking. The mold came out really nice! It's firm, yet flexible, and easy to demold. The orange cone on the left is plastic that I used to make the mold, it came right out with no issues. And the pink and blue cone on the right is resin that I poured into the mold just a few hours after making it. It came out nice and shiny! The bottom of the cone is slightly warped, but that's because I was so anxious to see the finished product, I demolded it early. Over all, this is a great product!

This stuff is so easy to use and it cures super fast.I got this to make a mold to create silicon tires for some 3D models I'm printing. The mold and tires turned out great, all the detail was there. The only issue I had was getting the tires to be black. This mixture is green and blue, which is difficult to turn to black. I got a dark gray, which was ok for what I was doing.Each mold was cured in under 2 hours, which was great for me since I'm a weekend hobbyist. I was able to make my mistakes and fix them all in the same day.Great stuff, will definitely use again when a project calls for it.