Lynx 3' One Man Crosscut Saw

I love this saw, I just made 2 boards out of logs with it. Sturdy very quick on its cuts and smooth handling.

This is a beautiful and solid piece of equipment. Please allow me to address some concerns others seem to be having:Supplementary Handle: Yes, if you just attach the handle and insert the pin, your handle with not be stable, and your pin will fall out. That's not how it works. Once the handle is around the blade and the pin is inserted, TURN the handle clockwise and it will tighten completely onto the blade. Once tightened, the handle will not move, the pin will not fall out, and you will have a one-man saw you can use with confidence.Won't cut hard woods: The first log I tested her on was an 18-inch diameter oak. Did it cut through it like butter? No. It's not a light saber. But properly sharpened it will do the job (see next point!)It's not sharpened: No, it's not. That's your job, because you know the work you're going to be doing (hardwood, softwood) and how you saw. This saw has a Great American tooth pattern which is fast and easy to sharpen. There are great resources online to determine the correct tooth geometry for both the crowns and end teeth.The saw binds: With teeth and gullet geometry, (and a smooth stroke) you'll have no problems.

Haven't tried the saw yet, but they really need to work on their helper handle. It isn't provided with the proper hardware to attach it to the handle. Handle comes in a sealed bag, which contained the wooden handle with a slotted metal post that fits over the blade, a washer-like piece to go between the handle and the blade, and a straight pin that goes through the metal post and the hole in the blade, to "secure" the handle to the blade.The problem is that the metal peg just sits loosely through the hole. No cotter pin, no threading to put a locking nut on it, or anything I could see to secure it. The pin would just fall out when the saw was tipped on its side. I figured out that the helper handle twists, tightening it down onto the back of the blade, and that the pressure then holds the straight pin in place by friction. However, it still seems that there should be a more reliable mechanism for holding in the pin. If the helper handle twists during use, which seems likely, then the friction on the pin would decrease, and it might fall out. Good luck on finding the little pin on the ground, especially in the woods. I will likely use a bolt to secure the helper handle so that I know it won't come off, but it would be nice if they just included something like this to begin with.Having said that about the helper handle, the saw itself looks to be of quality materials and workmanship, and the teeth look like they mean business. I can't wait to try out the saw tomorrow.

I bought this to replace my chainsaw and I love it! I heat my house with firewood, and yes, it takes longer to process the wood, than it would with a chainsaw. However, there's no motor, no oil, no fuel, no spark plugs, no kick-back, no noise, no vibration, no risk of deadly accidents, it's easier to clean, easier to sharpen than chains, it's way more comfortable in the hands, AND it will last a lifetime. On top of that, the exercise feels great and it's just plain old fun; What's not to like?!

Bought this saw used. Came very sharp, and it works as intended. Not sure if other reviewers were expecting a chainsaw. I have been using a Corona RS7160 raker saw for two years, and this is the next step. If you use a saw like this it will be a lot of work. There is no avoiding it. However, it does the job. The saw creates a nice kerf so it doesn't bind deep in the wood. Have used it for logs greater than 12". Cut the pieces on a Forest Master 80-934 Ultimate Sawhorse. A good number of pieces I've cut are various sizes in length less than 3'. It these cases I've had to balance the log on the sawhorse and saw with one hand. This is not a big deal once you get the cut going. Have never used the helper handle. I suggest you work your way up to this type of saw by using smaller ones so there is not a big disappointment in performance. By the time I received this saw I must have manually cut up two cords of wood.If you use this saw on hardwood the cutters will take a beating. I currently use a Stanley 21-106 8-Inch Mill Bastard File to sharpen the points. The single cut pattern minimizes material taken off. You will have to sharpen them up for every hour of usage.I use goo gone as a lubricant, and to keep sap/gum out of the teeth.After several sharpenings you will need to invest in a saw set tool Saw Set Tool (4-11 TPI) - Made in Japan to re-set the teeth. After 10 or so sharpenings I noticed the blade began to bind in the wood. This is expected behavior for these kinds of saws if you use them frequently. Search youtube on how to set the teeth. You will set the plunger to number 4 and set each tooth, skipping one tooth each time. Flip it over and perform the same procedure. Then test on a 8" or 10" piece of wood.

My son is building a cabin off grid so I surprised him with this for his birthday in May 2024. It has held up amazingly! He continues utilizing it and it still cuts perfect!

After I figured out how to put the second handle on (turn the handle), I put it to use today. It is easy to use, cuts real nice and I would highly recommend. Nice easy fluid motions and it won't bend on you. You'll get the hang of it real quick if you are a novice like I am.