Durabak 18 (For Outdoors), SMOOTH version - Non Slip Coating, Bedliner, Deck Paint for ALL Boats - Many colors to choose from! - BLACK - QUART

I had an "aha moment" one day after 6 years of not being able to use my circa 1947 salmon pink shower stall.I had a problem where the water in the floor of it would soak into the concrete under the tile, then slowly make its way outward, eventually making mildew stains on the tile outside the stall, and wetting/rotting the wood framing beyond the shower enclosure.I really missed the practicality of the stall, and the vintage charm of it, so I put off demolishing the entire room (all matching tile, cannot find it anymore) to resolve the issue- so I just didn't use it.I love bedliner for the durability, chemical resistance, and sealing characteristics it has- but I didn't want a colored liner to cover the original tile and stick out like a sore thumb.I had no idea anyone made it in clear, but I googled it and this is where I was directed.I also didn't want a cheap product- it had to be permanent and good the first time since once it's done, there's no going back if the attempt fails.I settled on Durabak- it arrived fairly quickly and I thoroughly bleached, rinsed, and washed again with glass cleaner, then allowed it to air out a couple days, guaranteeing dryness.I masked around the tops of the floor-to-wall transition tiles, then used a medium knap micro roller to apply the Durabak.It was a very thick product, super sticky and about the consistency of refrigerated syrup. It rolled on evenly. I put it on thick and liberally, it lays on lumpy with a roller, which I was a bit concerned about. Within 20 minutes before the second coat, it had leveled itself out completely and was glass smooth.I added the second coat, which used the remainder of the quart can (shower stall is 3x4 feet)The second coat leveled itself too. I was concerned a surface glass smooth would be slick for the bare feet, expecially soapy bare feet. After I let it cure throughly for about 3 days, I was shocked that even though there's no grit or abrasive material in the clear Durabak, your bare feet grip excellently on it, even covered in soap.I've been using the stall twice daily for a few weeks now, - zero signs of moisture escaping through into the slab or framing (left the wall opened up to make sure)It looks and performs like a million bucks. I didn't have to spend thousands and break my back gutting and replacing a period correct bathroom- which I love and didn't want to see destroyed. It fits this house, and wouldn't be replaceable once it was gone.Great product, Durabak! You saved my vintage bath!

This stuff has a shelf life, even before you open it. If it has a yellowish-orange tint when you pop the lid, try to get your money back. (The tinted stuff may have separation that is rust colored before you stir it and may be just fine, but the clear should still be clear in the can) You can try to thin with xylene, but it will not work. It's already too far gone.I have no doubt this is on the decks of some navy vessels. It is that good. Textured or smooth, it is virtually bullet proof when you apply it correctly. I will buy it again and again, but not all cans are equal. I bought a quart of this clear/smooth durabak and it was epoxy clear and not too different from latex paint in consistency. Fairly easy to apply and very happy with the results. My last order was a gallon and it was as described above, as well as very thick. Tried to save it, but it would leave bubbles in the surface no matter how much I thinned it.I absolutely recommend this product for coating anything you want protected and/or textured. I love it's durability. Just make sure you have a recent batch before you start.That being said, this particular can I received is still usable as an undercoating or on tools, but I will not be putting it on anything that needs to look nice. I'll buy a new can for that

I wanted an extremely hard-wearing paint for the inside of the my older skiff. I followed the directions dutifully, sanding with 40-grit and wiping down with Xylene, which is horrible stuff.The directions say to roll out a thin coat, first, let it dry (1 hour!!!), add a second coat. First of all, there is no way a thin coat dries in 1 hour. It's still sticky as can be. Second, I expected this to be far less transparent than it is -- the above photos are with two coats, with the second coat as heavy as I could roll without running (which is another problem). You can easily see bare fiberglass and fairing compound under the paint, which is disappointing.

Keep it well sealed and out of the sun and you can apply lots of light coats over the period of 10 HOURS. Maybe I got lucky or had super fresh product but I was able to work with it all day. I would pour it from original can, seal it up, and set it in climate controlled garage. Thin the product I was going to be spraying, apply, wait prescribed time, and repeat. Doing it this way the product in the can never started curing. It is easy to apply, and I can’t comment on durability yet.