Hellwig 7962 Adjustable End Links 11-14"

Theses things are really strong and work well. I messed up the bushings and customer service just sent me new ones within a couple of days for free. Definitely getting another set for the rear.

Installed on a 2006 (2005 chassis) Winnebago Sightseer 29R with the Ford F53 chassis. Used for the "Cheap Handling Fix" to maintain stock sway bar geometry. I then took the stock front sway bar end links and used them for the CHF on the rear axle to help keep the sway bar angle from becoming too radical when the frame was raised and possibly damaging the VSS mounted in the top of the differential.I'm still not sure what made the biggest difference to the handling of our motor home. I also replaced all four Bilstein shocks with Monroe Gas Magnums (available here on Amazon) and ordered a set of the blue polyurethane rear sway bar bushings (only found on fleabay) to install where the stock ones had totally fallen out.I did NOT come across any of the previously mentioned issues where there were damaged or incomplete threads. I also did not run into excessive paint galling the threads either. I did have to drill out the center steel bushing to accept the slightly larger stock Ford bolts though. So, I guess that on one hand Hellwig listened to the reviews and tightened up their quality control - but on the other hand they haven't caught on to the fact that most folks are buying these for the CHF on Ford F53 motor home chassis. Hello Hellwig, can you offer a larger set of bushings for the majority of your customers?

Worked fantastically for me to install a rear sway bar on my 1995 Chevy Tahoe 2Door with a 6" lift kit (technically 4.5" in the rear). This kit does not come with a Clevis, but the original kit I purchased did. These kits contain just enough to replace the end links on a kit, and nothing more. Still a wonderful design, and combined with the 7608 kit for my Tahoe, was an absolutely amazing upgrade.

Hellwig 7962 11-14" Adjustable EndlinksUsed to perform the "cheap handling fix" (CHF) on my motorhome (2006 Ford F53 chassis). This is not a review of the CHF itself but a review of the design and installation of these Hellwig adjustable links. I used them on the front only for mine. I applied the CHF on the rear using the old links. If longer links appear to be needed in the rear, I may install the longer OEM front links in the rear or order another pair of these.I did NOT have the problem of having to clean the paint off of threads as others have. Mine went together easily.The included fasteners and steel sleeve diameter do not match OEM Ford bolts. Ford bolts are slightly larger diameter. So, as many others have, I re-used my existing bolts and sleeves. I did use the "hourglass" shaped Helwig urethane bushings as the OEM Ford bushings are straightwall and would not work correctly in the Hellwig end links. My Install procedure:1) Lube the Helwig urethane bushings with the included silicone grease and push into the Hellwig link eyes.2) Remove your existing link steel sleeves by pushing them out.3) Lube your existing steel link sleeves and push them in the Hellwig urethane bushings.4) Install the links on vehicle using your existing washers to sandwich the Hellwig urethane bushings and OEM sleeves.5) Put the Hellwig fasteners and sleeves in your junk drawers.Steps 1 and 3 are best done with a vise. Step 2 with an appropriate sized socket or another sleeve to push it.The Hellwig urethane bushings and sleeves are slightly longer (maybe 3/32" estimate) than the OEM bushings and sleeves so you will deform the Hellwig bushings on the ends quite a bit when tightening enough to "sandwich" the OEM sleeve tight between the washers. I don't believe this is a problem and it is VERY important that these fasteners be tight.The OEM ford bolts have an unthreaded section that is a bit too short so a few threads are inside the steel sleeves due to thickness of the frame and length of the sleeve. I believe this is also true in the stock ford installation (at least on my F53), especially if Ford Z brackets are installed. I do not believe this is a problem. My install has the Z brackets on each link top and bottom. Refer to Ford (TSB?) Article 04-11-2, available at www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/041102.pdf. Note the article lists new bolts which may, or may not, have the proper unthreaded length. If concerned about this, you may want to get new bolts but you will have to measure and may have to go to a specialty house or Ford to get them. (Warning: Ford parts prices are high on the bolts and I don't know if they have the correct unthreaded length. So I would just measure and get them from McMaster Carr or other fastener specialist).One other concern I have is if/when the "hourglass" bushings wear out, can I get replacements somewhere? Probably won't have to worry about that since they are urethane.I haven't driven it yet but will update this review if there are problems with the links themselves or install. There is enough pro and con CHF data on internet for most people to decide to do it or not.Note: casual mechanics may have a problem getting the old links out and new ones in due to access to the inside of the frame, especially on the front of an F53 chassis. You will need appropriate tools, patience, strength, and a little extra blood and skin to donate to the project. Also, DO NOT work under a vehicle that is not securely supported. I can crawl under mine and work with it sitting on the tires, not jacked up.Overall, I am happy with the design - just wish they exactly matched the OEM fastener & sleeve sizes or offered a separate kit. I suspect a large majority of these sales are for motorhome chassis.

Pro: Better than stock.Con: The male part of one of the links came with left hand threads. Had to order a 9/16" X 18 all thread rod from Grainger, cut the threaded part off the ring end and welded the new (correctly threaded) rod on to the ring. PITA.

Purchased to do the CHF to my 04 Holiday Rambler. While it wasn't a quick install due to where the bolts on top were located, it wasn't difficult and shouldn't be too hard for the average guy with a few tools in his garage. I think the RV rides and handles better, but I also had new shocks put on and this past weekend added a steering stabilizer which I still have to road test.

They threaded together easily and bushings and sleeves pressed in easily.

Did the Cheap Handling Fix on my F53 motorhome but didn’t like the geometry. Added the Hellwig End links and it made a big difference. With proper geometry and stiffer position basically kill body roll.