Chasing the Ephemeral: 50 Routes for a Successful Scottish Winter

This may be limited value for those climbing regularly at a higher grade but for this middle grade winter climber I'm hoping this book will be invaluable this coming winter. This is a guidebook with a difference, its main purpose is to help you make the choice where to go and what routes to climb during the varying conditions that we encounter during the Scottish winter climbing season. There are 50 featured routes with information on approach, descent, conditions, top tips and route descriptions complete with topos and alternative routes to consider in the same area/crag.The routes covered are in the III-VI range mostly, with a couple at VII. Venues range from the NW to Arrochar to the Cairngorms.The book commences with 30 pages of winter climbing information, tips and advice and the season is split into 5 categories of ice/snow condition ranging from Early Bird, through Cold Snap to Late Season. Each category contains a couple of pages of introduction and the whole book is filled with photographs to make you want to get out there and in about it.

Chasing the Ephemeral Simon Richardson published by Mica PublishingAdmittedly I had to look this up! "Ephemeral" lasting for a very short time.Expert, die hard or novice, if you love winter climbing and want to up your game Chasing the Ephemeral by Simon Richardson will make a difference. Packed with expertise gained through Simons climbing this is not simply a guide book! You are tapping into almost forty years of Simon’s life. The strategy and tactics chapter offer no guarantees however to fulfil your objectives take a leaf out of Simon’s book. At age eighteen Simon walked the 'Allt A Mhuilinn path' en route to Ben Nevis, as the North face appeared a love affair was born one that would last 38 years and beyond. It was that day in 1978 that the obsession started, the beginnings of a special relationship of which Chasing the Ephemeral is just the latest chapter.I was fortunate to attend Simons lecture at Outside in Hathersage this December. My overriding thought as I drove home “when was the last time I came across someone who had such extensive knowledge of his subject” which in Simon’s case is Scottish Winter Climbing. The man’s achievements are simply mind blowing with over six hundred Scottish winter new routes, add to that twenty new Alpine routes and the prestigious achievement of climbing well over fifty winter lines of at least grade VII. If you thought Simon’s talent ends there then you are wrong! Simon writes beautifully, Once Scottish winter correspondent for High and subsequently Climb magazine his journalistic career spans a quarter century. Simon’s blog Scottishwinter.com must be the number one source of Scottish winter wisdom on the planet. Simon is author of the 2002 Ben Nevis guide of which he said “I am very proud of that guide” and so he should be. With his encyclopaedic knowledge and attention to detail it took seven years to write, Chasing the Ephemeral is a book which at worst is quite special but more probably unique.From start to finish Simons talk as with the book was an explosion of outstanding images, a multitude of facts, and common sense tactics that will make a difference. With an objective achieved ratio of 9/10 the knowledge attained over his glittering career Chasing the Ephemeral is generously packed with words of wisdom. Chapters cover everything from choosing a route, weather, equipment and cycling. Yes cycling, an efficient way to approach a mountain on short winter days! It’s of no surprise that Simons career in the Oil industry cumulated with senior management with multinational BP. Oil exploration a high risk business in which tactics and strategy play a major part, the difference between finding the black stuff or not. I have no doubt that when faced with just one day a week to climb Simon adopted a similar mindset to that used at work.With over 150 guide books in print originality is hard to achieve, Chasing the Ephemeral is less of a guide but more of a way of thinking! With the mix of tactics and routes originality is achieved one hundred percent. It strikes me that planning is a major factor in winter success as are the more commonly associated skills associated with a big day out. Yes fitness and climbing ability count but the way you approach your objective is as much about planning as is the measure of your ability. I know too well simply rocking up at the Charles Inglis Clark (C.I.C.) Memorial Hut on two occasions. Over two visits of four days I climbed only one route the magnificent Tower Ridge. Had I read this book no doubt the outcome would have been very different.Routes are categorised into five sections, Early Bird, Cold Snaps, Lean Times, Top Nick and Late season. With grades from II to VII the emphases to climb at the right place at the right time. An obvious statement but the way you think will be influenced by the book increasing your enjoyment by several factors. From the Coblerin the South to Cul Beag in the north and a central band of objectives from Ben Cruachan in the West to Creag Clova to the East twenty two locations and a total of fifty routes described in fine detail. There is no doubt that Simon’s pick all have outstanding qualities on their day. Route descriptions are original and more comprehensive than in the standard guide. Tower Ridge for example includes background information, conditions, top tips, alternative routes and of course the route description and map. A topo and three inspirational photographs collectively give a comprehensive feel to the climb.The book looks stunning with over ninety photographers work, the inspiration factor gets ten out of ten. My pick of the images p162 Kevin Avery on Darth Vader by Bob Wightman and p178 Looking down the upper reaches of South Post Direct by Ewan Lyons. The depth and breath of images confirm the best available have been used throughout. Turning to page 142 my heart sank! Joe Smith leading the final pitch of Green Gully , Coire na Ciste, Ben Nevis. A great image of an outstanding young man! Joe tragically died in a winter climbing accident along with Simon Davidson last winter on Ben Nevis. There is no doubt that Joe would be proud and flattered with his inclusion. I traversed the Cuillin Ridge at my first attempt with Joe his fitness and route finding ability of the finest order, but for Joe my failure on this the finest of mountain routes would have been a certainty.Over a season winter devotees would not solely rely on Chasing the Ephemeral. Guides such as Ben Nevis and Scottish winter Climbs a necessity. In addition Cold Climbs by legend Ken Wilson would inspire, as would Ben Nevis, Britain’s Highest Mountain by Simon and Ken Crocket. Chasing the Ephemeral is not just a guide, it’s a way of thinking an inspiration. Simon’s attention to detail adds up to a book which at worst is quite special but most probably unique. It will save years of failure all thanks to Simon Richardson’s devotion to his obsession.The most interesting guide book published in years.My RatingValue 10/10 (this book will save you a fortune)The climbs 9.5/10 (what do I know?)Photography 9.0/10Other information 10/10Topo’s 9.0/10Design 9.5/10Ease of use 9/10Overall impression 9.5/10(Temped to go 10/10 but no guide is perfect, this does come close!)

To me this is the most inspiring and wonderful book for many years on the unique world of Scottish winter climbing. It is a journey into the varying conditions that you get in this wild environment. For such a small country these climbs are so varied and interesting that climbers come from all over the world to savour the conditions. This a great guide to getting things done and there are so many secrets of where and when to go. I loved every page and route and despite my age and fitness it will get me out this winter , I have been inspired again after 40 years of winter fun.Thank you for sharing your adventures and sharing your unique knowledge. A must buy for all winter mountaineers.What a joy to read thanks Simon.

Simon has spotted and now filled the missing information in the usual guidebook formats. With winter climbing, when a route is in condition is equally important as where, and Simon's book helps fill that gap. Although only a handful of routes are described in full, the choice means you can use the same information and apply to similar located routes, so the book has a much wider scope than just the climbs listed. The book also has some examples further afield than just the most popular venues and so should inspire climbers to try and broaden their experience of Scottish climbing. Probably best used alongside one of the standard Guidebooks.

Brilliant! Simon has adopted a very unique angle to approach the esoteric world of Scottish winter climbing from, one that can only come as a result of years of experience. I work in the Scottish mountains extensively, especially in winter, and still found myself learning plenty from this book.

Excellent book. Written by someone who knows how to maximize their winter climbing success and make the correct route choice for the day. Packed full of inspiration and really useful tips. Every mid grade Scottish winter climber, and those aspiring, need to have this book in their library.

Just arrived today. This book is very inspiring. Can't for Scotland to get into condition to start ticking off more climbs.Beautiful pictures, nice descriptions and lots of useful information.

Can't imagine a Scottish winter climber without this. Just brilliantly executed. My only niggle is I'd have liked a hardback version!