Standard Motor Products LX230 Ignition Control Module

Finally, this part did the trick and got my truck running right!!!{Remember when installing this to ground it properly and use heat sink compound, not dielectric grease}This was installed on a 1991 2WD Ranger with the 2.3L eight-plug engine. I bought the truck about a year or so ago, and I do not drive it much, as I work from home. When I started driving the truck, every once in a while, it would bog down like it was not getting enough fuel.I drove it like that for several months, while piddling around trying to figure out the source of the problem as I had the time and the money. Eventually the problem started getting worse, with it backfiring often on startup, and sometimes it would stall out completely while driving.This truck had a lot of other problems that masked what was going on. It had rodent-chewed wires, vacuum line leaks, intermittent inertia switch, one bad plug wire, two swapped plug wires, carbon tracking on one coil. It also had a bad gas gauge, common on these vehicles, which always made me unsure of the actual fuel level.I replaced the fuel pump assembly, in case the pump was on its way out and to repair the gauge. Put new plugs and wires on it, repaired the vacuum leaks, repaired the wires, jumped the inertia leads and popped in a new fuel filer, plus changed the oil.. Figured these were all tune up items anyway, which it needed, so no waste there. After, the problem remained, and got to the point where the truck was unreliable, I did some research and found out how to pull the codes.I realized there is no check engine light on this, and used a test light to pull the codes. Codes showed a bad coil pack, and the carbon tracking was evidence of that. Coils tested OK, pretty close to spec, on an ohm meter, but I found these: ENA Set of 2 New Ignition Coils for Ford Lincoln Mercury Compatible with C924 Fd487 Fd480 490 F510 5c1117 178-8222 E96 52-1967 At that price, I decided to swap them, and that would leave me with a spare. (The coils work great! Good quality for the price)The code for the coil returned. I happened to find mention in a mustang forum about a tachometer not operating properly on a 2.3l, and that the signal comes from the ignition module. The tach has never worked in this truck. Upon further research, a video on youtube showed how an intermittent ignition module can go into a "Limp Home" mode periodically, where it retards the timing.This can cause a loss of power, bogging, backfiring, no-starts, and other problems, including loss of tach.So I replaced the module, with this L230, and as soon as I started it up, I knew the truck was fixed. It has more power than it ever has had, and it runs like a scalded ape.Before, if I did not feather the clutch in first or reverse and add a lot of throttle, the truck would stall. Now, I can release the clutch, even without gas, and it will take off like a shot. On the roads, there is so much power that the back wheels like to come loose on the curves with thrttle, so I have had to alter my driving habits.When installing this be sure to ground it properly. The top left hole is technically the one that is supposed to handle the ground, but on my truck, there was no hole tapped in that location, nor any bolt in that location on the original module. The new module explicitly says the the top left is supposed to be grounded with the bolt.After doing some checking online, and confirming it with the multi-meter, both the left side holes can be used for ground. The right side holes will NOT ground the module. I went ahead and put a wire in the top left hole anyway, connected it to the bottom left bolt, and, just for the heck of it, I ran a wire to a motor ground, just to be sure. Just a bolt in the lower left should be enough to ground it properly, however.When installing this, be sure to use heat sink compound, like the stuff used for installing processors on computers. Put a thin layer on the rear of the module, where it will contact the air intake. Some of the shop manuals say to use dielectric grease, which WILL NOT work. It does not transfer heat to the intake properly,allowing the module to overheat, and it breaks down quickly. Heat sink compound is permanent and will cool the module properly.

Mi ford ranger no tenia chispa en dos de los postes de una de las bobinas, por ende no tenía fuerza y no emparejaba la aceleracion, solo fue instalar el modulo nuevo y se acabaron los problemas

My truck just died suddenly and I narrowed it down to either failure of the ignition moduleor the crankshaft position sensor. Well, it ended up being the crankshaft position sensorthat had failed, (Foreign object damage, Magnet broken off,) However I'm glad I replaced theignition module as well because this truck now runs like new!This engine has the dual plug head and I think it may have only been firing on one bank ofspark plugs. This vehicle has over 250,000 miles on it so I think many of the electrical componentsare starting to fail. I replaced the entire engine, (rebuilt long block,) back in 2006 because of lowcompression and it wouldn't pass smog inspection but replacing the ignition module made a muchmore dramatic improvement in overall engine performance.Easier starting, smoother idle, better fuel economy, More power when you put your foot in it.I'll be purchasing more Standard Motor Products components in the future as needed.

Well my reasoning for buying this was, I had a random misfire that could not be traced. Mostly under load but about 3 times a week it would miss. Well decided to fire the parts canon and purchased this unit, used the heat sink silicone and bam, 1/2 mile from the house it died, my truck is a manual so dumped the clutch…still didn’t run. But if I cycle the key it would come back. Drove it 20 miles that day, different speeds and still randomly would die. Cycle key, back in business. Drove to and from work today, did this about 10 times too. Time to send it back and get a refund. I give it two stars because when it was running, it had no misses lol

Fits and works as advertised. My vehicle runs great after installing the new control module.

First part I ordered worked for about 5 miles, then left me stranded and $80.00 poorer with tow bill. Amazon replaced the part for free and new part is working great for the last week, so far, so good.

My truck was running very rough and I had tried several things with no results. I read online that the ignition control module may be the problem. This part was the most reasonablely priced for what I needed and as soon as installed my Ford Ranger started running better than it had in years. Very happy with price, shipping and application and would recommend to all that needs an ignition control module like this one.

Perfect OEM replacement for 1992 Ford ranger fixes the problem I had which was at times no power and other times miss firing