Disc Shim Set

My very old Hayes HFX brake caliper was as far inboard as it could be on my not so new Fox fork, and even with some machining of the caliper mount it wasn't enough. Nothing terrible but there was some rubbing noise at slow speeds or while torquing the bars while climbing that was wholly irritating. I didn't even measure, I just threw the whole bunch on the hub and reset the caliper and it's perfect finally. One of those products that does what it's intended to do.

The shims worked great to position our bike's disc brake rotor the same distance off the hub as our trainer wheel. My wife uses her bike on the trainer and on the road. Her regular tire is a knobby 29-er which is no good for a trainer - causes too much noise and vibration. To advoid changing tires all the time, we got her a 700c spare wheel and mounted a trainer tire. This works great on the trainer, but the rotor distance from the wheel hub was off a hair compared to her regular wheel. This meant re-adjusting the Avid BB7 brake caliper every time I swapped wheels. With these shims, I was able to shim the regular wheel to match the trainer wheel. I needed to insert 6 shims to line things up. The shims are 0.2 mm each, so I moved the rotor outboard 1.2 mm. (To make wheels match, you shim the wheel with the rotor positioned the furthest inboard.) Now the wheels swap easily.

Spacing was crucial and this product nailed it

These shims saved the day! I have 2 sets of rims for my MTB and while the front wheels can be swapped out nicely, the rear rims swapout caused the hydraulic disk brakes to bind. I found that adding 3 of these shims (0.2mm each) to one of the rear rotors did the trick.Hint 1: you'll need a T25 torque wrench for the disc rotor bolts. I used the Topeak Topeak ComboTorq Wrench and Bit Set, and in order to gain purchase, laid the wheel on the floor. You have to really PUSH the T25 driver into the bolt head in order to avoid stripping out the bolt head. I wore mechanix gloves for all this.Hint 2: every time, when I swap my wheels, I invert the bike and force the brake pads apart using a set of plastic credit cards or similar. First, slide 2 cards in. Then slide more cards in between the first 2. Reset the pistons all the way apart as far as they will go. Then install the wheel, turn the bike right way up and give a few gentle pumps on the brake levers. This readjusts the pads and moves any air in the system back up to the reservoir.Hint 3: always use the same amount of force when tightening the QR. If you use more, or less, the alignment of the pads to the rotor will vary. You may get binding and you may think you need to move the caliper. Likely this won't be needed if you follow Hints 2 and 3.

They measured 0.19mm - 0.24mm, but that's good enough for me.

I was getting tired of having to realign the brake caliper on my MTN bike whenever I would change wheels. So I searched for and found these shims. It takes a bit of work to get all of your brake rotors spaced out, but an hours worth of work or so and now I can easily swap wheels without having to readjust the brakes.

These work great! Definitely recommend it for those with two sets of wheels that get swapped (i.e. a tubular racing and clincher training set for cyclocross) and the rotors rub on one of the sets. These shims are SUPER thin, which means it's very easy to perfectly dial in the spacing. (Note: there are 8 included at 0.2 mm each - which means 4 per wheel. If using all 4 (0.8 mm) isn't enough shimming still, use a simple washer, which is often 1.0 mm. Then continue to add shims as needed.)

Very thin. It takes 3 or more to make a difference.