ZVS 20A 1000W DC12-30V Low Voltage Induction Heating Module Flyback Heater Driver Board

The trick to get it to work with a normal power supply is to suddenly add power to the system. The power supply provides electricity too slowly to kick off the operation (start resonating the circuit). Once I figured it out, it worked great. Dont operate it without an induction coil installed. Around 130 watts applied and the unit is keep cool enough.

Didn't work, smoked rolled out on first run.Ouput terminal melted off board.

I'm no stranger to the ZVS. I've built several by hand. It's a very good circuit, but not without it's pitfalls. I bought this item because I wanted a more purpose built and self-contained circuit for moving forward with projects. No more cobbled together rats nest salvage build; I wanted professionalism. As soon as I got this in the mail, I removed my home built ZVS, and installed this unit. TO BE CLEAR! I was already using the mentioned power supply+flyback coil combination with a ZVS driver with ZERO problems. This setup was a known good test bed. The ONLY difference was I had been using the center tap design, which is a trivial change to the primary. (the ZVS itself changes more, which was already done). As soon as I hooked it up, I got THIN purple sparks from my flyback secondary, then... *POP*.... one of the FET's let out the magic smoke. My guess is that the high speed diodes are actually generic garbage, as this exact problem was something I have encountered before."So why not zero stars!?"Well, like I had said.... I'm no stranger to the ZVS.... they blow up... a lot!!! And, like I also said... I bought this as a PLATFORM for housing the ZVS driver circuit, so that I could have a more workable way to... you guessed it! make repairs and changes. It technically still serves this purpose, as there is nothing actually wrong with the circuit, the seller just cheaped out on certain components. I would have liked to have good components, but mouser/digikey ship to me in ~3 days, so I'm not complaining. The price I paid was marginally acceptable for the PCB at least.If the seller is listening.... you absolutely MUST use "ultra fast" diodes for the MOSFET turn off part of this circuit... (D1, and D2) the crappy generics will not do.... honestly, most of this circuit has to use exactly what the makers specified, it's pretty picky about its parts.

Works as expected very simple.

The device performs as advertised, but I cooked the IGBTs on mine by getting the work piece too close to the coil (my hand slipped) and drawing way more current than the system could handle. I didn't short the terminals, as the coil was insulated. All this to say, use a power supply with current limiting or put a fuse on the input side.

This one costs a few bucks more than the cheapest but would be easier to repair component wise . No coil was included but had fun trying different gauge wire and turns. 1" diameter 8 gauge 8 turn coil worked best for me without transistors getting hot. I am only heating 1/4" dia. or less objects for maybe 20 sec. @12v, 5-10A.

So I received this module recently and immediately upon inspection I notice the obvious ware as though it's already been used. I don't have my power supply, coil, etc yet so I can't test if it actually works or not but even if it does work I'm skeptical on the longevity of a product that arrived with clear ware on what's supposed to be brand new module.Once I receive my power supply, switch and coil I will put it together and figure out if it works or not. I will then update the review and rating accordingly.

These are fun, I made an induction heater for small projects with mine and it works great. Throw a couple 12v batteries in series and a switch then your good to go. Make sure you have a coil connected to the output before turning it on.