BOSS Audio Systems R3002 Riot Series Car Audio Amplifier - 600 High Output, 2 Channel, 2/8 Ohm, High/Low Level Inputs, High/Low Pass Crossover, Full Range, Hook Up to Stereo and Subwoofer, Class AB

It's a cheap, inefficient, class a/b amp. It's not winning any awards at show, but its driving a 12" and adds a little bass to my meager system in my daily driver. I've had this for 4 years now. It survived a car flipping end over end early in its life while being completely unsecured. A little dented and bruised, it has continued to serve faithfully through the years since. If you need something modest, you don't need to blow the latch off your trunk, and don't want to spend a lot of money, this is a decent amp for the cost.

Hace su trabajo, tiene buen sonido a pesar de su capacidad y precio. lo recomiendo

Bought this 600w two channel amp to run 2 12" subs that are rated for 300w each. Figured it was a good price for what I was trying to do and it worked great,....for about 4 days. Suddenly stopped working when I was out running errands. Fine when I got to the store, nothing when I got out of the store. Literally nothing. No sound, no indication anything is wrong with it, no warning it was defective. Just stopped powering the subs.Still has the pretty blue lights behind the logo and a green light showing it has turned on from the remote wire signal but nothing going to the speakers. Speakers checked out, LOC checked out, even tried wireing up the high input harness just to be sure it wasn't coming from the signal side.Hard wired subs to the speakers in my soundbar (jeep thing) and they're fine. Checked the ground, remote, and power, all fine.The crazy thing is, it didn't blow the fuse on it or on the power supply.Just spend a few extra dollars on something that isn't hoping you mistakenly buy it thinking it said Bose. It's cheap for a reason.At least Amazon didn't hassle me on the return.

This unit is clearly not intended to push anything more than a few door speakers. So many people having issues with the amp, and it appears that many of them are using it incorrectly. This is not meant to be bridged and used to power a subwoofer. It is intended to be used to give your door speakers a little boost over the stock amp in your head unit.I also read a lot of reviews about there being a lot of engine noise. I had this issue as well. A couple of things usually cause this issue:1) A bad ground, causing the head unit to send a bad signal to the amp (tested this by hooking up my phone directly to the amp, and getting no interference) - can also occur if the head unit is cheap, a.k.a "Dual".2) Gain set too highI fixed these issues by setting my gain just low enough that I couldn't hear any more engine whine, and by installing an in-line ground loop isolator. After that, it was all about setting up my head unit to put out as much sound as I could get it to.Once I got everything set up, and replaced my cheapo Dual head unit with a Pioneer, I was able to tune the sound to get the amp to push my door speakers as loud as it could. To avoid distortion, I used the crossover setting in my head unit to take out all the bass from the door speakers. I have two 12s in the back that easily fill this lack of bass in, giving me a really good and loud sounding setup. I couldn't be happier, so long as the amp lasts.Don't expect this thing to be the best amp you'll ever buy. It isn't. But, for the price, it's a fantastic option to get more out of your aftermarket door speakers.

For the price, you can't beat it.. this thing has some power

The first one I received I didn’t even hook up, when an opened the box the amp smelled like it had already been burnt up. Sent it back got another, this one works but has the most annoying buzz very loud. I got this amp because it’s small and fits inside a box I’m making. Will replace this one when I find another small amp.UPDATE: bought a good ground loop idolater and it solved the buzz issue.

Love it in my Mustang

Works very well