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M**K
A good read
I've read many accounts of the various Everest disasters and this is one of my favorites. It's well written and gives an account of what happened on the north side. Part of the reason I've read so many of these books is because I've struggled to understand why people are so compelled to climb Everest. I understand dedicated mountaineers for whom this is a way of life, but not why less experienced people think this is something they could or should do. In most cases, it doesn't seem noble but for the most part incredibly self centered. I guess the reason I like this book is because the author didn't set out to summit. In fact it seemed he thought he wouldn't and then somehow -- he did. The way he describes the hardships, the difficulty of the climb, certainly makes it seem very real and is great reading.
D**R
Is it a 3 or 4 star
It's difficult to choose a rating for this book. One man's version of the events ... but isn't that what it means, being there and putting your memories and perspectives down for others to read and perhaps critique? At times during the description of "how I got here" it falls to the 1 or 2 star level. But then when the actual climb is described, it's much more interesting and engaging, up to 5 stars. It's better than some but not up to the level of others.
R**M
Compelling Account of the 1996 Everest Disaster
The author writes about his experiences climbing Everest from the North side during this disaster. This book makes a good companion to Krakauer's book. I thought that this book did a better job of describing the extreme efforts and risks Everest climbers take. The reader is given literally a step by step narrative as the author struggles with his team on the upper slopes. Highly recommended for those interested in this subject.
Y**.
Good travel companion
This book is well written and quite enjoyable. Facts and authors' comments are well balanced, and there's plenty of good British humour. As drawbacks I would like to name the following:1. The subtitle is misleading, since the author's group did not summit Everest during the storm of May 10th; they did this on May 19th, more than a week after the storm.2. Unfortunately, M.D. repeats Krakauer's absurd accusations of Anatoli Boukreev's who, according to J.K., was "dressed too lightly," "had to use oxygene" etc. At the same time, the author's own description of Rob Hall's death leaves the reader little doubt that had Boukreev stayed on top instead of quickly returning to the camp, he would most likely had to stay with dying Scott Fisher and die with him the same way Rob Hall could not leave Doug Hansen and died next to him. Such scenario also would have resulted in most certain death of climbers in the "dogpile" who were otherwise saved by Boukreev (except for Yatsuko Namba). Well, as one reviewer of "K-19" movie pointed out, "Nobody needs heroic Russians."3. The illustrations in the book are B/W, which is so 60s.
V**F
A very good read. This is on par with "Into Thin ...
A very good read. This is on par with "Into Thin Air". This book, in fact, complements the 1996 Everest Storm written about in "Thin Air". This is written from the North Face approach to Mt. Everest. Some of the storm related events from the Southern approach are mentioned. I think this book gives a good picture of what the various "Camps" are like, from Base Camp thru Camp six, just below the summit. There is mention of finding dead climbers from India. One of them is probably "Green Boots" who remains near a cave, and has become a way marker to the summit. Also covered is the climbers from Japan who first came in contact with the troubled climbers from India.If you want a great read of the perils of high altitude climbing, this is a book to read.
A**Z
Fascinating
Interesting to read what happend on the other side of the Everest during the infamous '96 season. I felt the author was very sincere ( to much sharing here and there expecially abiut his marriage problems) and as more of an amateur high mountain climber he achieved something great. The end of the book was disappointing for me as he said he did not learn that much from the experience as Everest did not changed him. He did not changed to much in his marriage or his lifestyle as a traveler and gone from home a greay deal and he did not mention his kids that much. He talked about when he got home but nothing about his reunion with his family. It may just be my perseption and he probably just decided what subject to keep in the book and what not.
A**E
Interesting version of the 1996 climbing season
Very interesting book. Not too many writing or editing errors so that was refreshing. And I'm still left wondering WHY people want to put themselves into these climbing environments! I like the writer's point of view on the events of 1996. No fingers pointed, just a basic telling from his personal point of view.
P**L
A fine adventure tale
For anyone who has been to the Himalayas, the descriptions of the conditions ring true. It is a very harsh, inhospitable environment, and even trekkers up to Everest base camp sense that feeling quickly along with marvelling at the awesome scenery. The misery of trying to function in the face of the debilitating effects of altitude and weather are a reality that Everest climbers have to deal with routinely. Dickinson gives the reader a good feel for these conditions as well as the impact of the technical aspects of the route on a relatively inexperienced mountaineer. It was a little depressing to read of a storied route up the mountain with abandoned camps and debris not to mention corpses. The story also points out the pure survival nature of operating in The Death Zone and the fine line between making it back and disaster. At the same time, it reinforces the admiration and respect for the early Everesters who accomplished so much with the crudest of equipment not to mention the work of the Sherpas who are the real unsung heroes of these accounts.
Trustpilot
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