60V 25A 1500W DC Switching Power Supply Adapter PSU AC 110V / 220V-DC 60V Transformer Adapter, for DC Motor, Medical Equipment, Lighting Equipment of Industrial Power Supplies

I returned and was credited for 2 of them. They said I did not return one of them when I sent them all back at the same time. They billed me again for one of them. Keep your return slips. Otherwise be perpaired to be cheated. Oh by the way. They do not supply a stable supply of power. Voltage up and and down like crazy. Save yourself the trouble and your cash after the return cheat.

I concur with the other reviews that this inverter's price, power, and noise levels are superlative. I bought the 60V 1500W version, and it's great for charging my Jackery's expansion battery pack directly with DC power. By charging both the main Jackery and the expansion battery separately (but concurrently), I can cut the charging time from about 2.5 hours to around 1.5 hours. This is helpful whenever charging from temporary power (like a gas generator) or if time is of the essence for some reason. You will just need access to two separate 15A circuits, or a 3000W or greater gas generator, or by using a "splitter" connected to a 50A receptacle like those used for RVs and Level 2 electric vehicle chargers. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRSXKN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) In my application, I use the unit's voltage adjustment knob to lower the voltage to 48V. That keeps me comfortably below the unit's rated power of 1500 watts.

I think it works, I measured 60 volts with my voltmeter. The part that is spooky is the metal frame is very near where you put the wires in. I had it plugged in, AC wires connected and I wanted to drop the voltage down a tad below 60 because I measured 60.4 volts. My Anker 3800 will not go over 60 and their solar panels are rated at 57.8V so I wanted to bring it down to that. Well you can guessed what happened . . . one of my voltmeter leads was touching the ground frame and kaboom and the circuit breaker trips. So I fried it and will have to get another and make sure I put plastic tape on the frame edge there. (see photo) I wish all this was enclosed, it would make me feel a lot better. Here is a photo where I put red tape over the frame so as not to short like I did.

This PSU lasted about 50 days before a small, high-voltage capacitor blew in it. I wasn't around when the the cap blew, but it started making a harsh, resonant noise, regardless of what load of placed on it. I was running about 250W of a very consistent load on it before this happened.I opened it up to see if there was something I could see that failed, at which point I found the blown cap. Even though I replaced the cap this only extended the life for about a couple weeks before it started making a really loud noise (Regardless of load). I completely disconnected the load, but this made no difference, and it ran the fans at full speed the whole time, really heating up. There isn't anything visibly wrong with the internals, however it's not possible to troubleshoot it while it's running due to the configuration of the transistor heatsink-- not that I would suggest fooling around in a PSU that is packed with exposed high-voltage components.I would definitely not recommend this PSU, it was very disappointing to have it fail so soon after the Amazon return period had ended, especially with such a light load. I know these cheap PSUs are always supposed to be derated in terms of the actual load they can tolerate, but this is ridiculous.

The media could not be loaded. I’ve tested these a few times where a 60VDC at 14A was required. This is well below the 1200W continuous rating.Well these supplies make a lot of ofNoise. One of them failed to where it will show voltage then sag badly as soon as any load is appliedUpdate: second one failed identical to the first. Replacement units have a slightly different casing and pcb

Connected this power supply to 2 hp dc motor and it worked great.

I bought this for a solar project where I needed to convert 120V AC to 60V DC at 25A. The rated input and output were exactly what I needed. When I hooked it up to a multimeter it was outputting 60Vs. Great I thought. Attached it to the device and the amps spiked WAY past 25A until the circuit break blew. I read one person's comment to adjust the output voltage down. I adjusted it down to 48V and STILL the amperage went nuts until the breaker popped. I tried the other adjustment to lower the max amperage but it didn't seem to do anything at all. I gave it one more try and the power supply maxed at 48V and around 48 amps until something inside it popped and the magic gray smoke came out. Glad I didn't damage the device I was trying to get it to work with. Avoid and find something else that actually has some safety limiters!

Should have at least a fuse for protection if not a circuit breaker. It has neither. So be careful