UniTak3D Ender 3 3D Printer LED Light 24V 7.5W Dual Sides Embedded Light Bar Strip Upgrades for Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro,Ender 3 S1,CR6SE, Voxlab Aquila-2020 Profile

Super easy to install, great for keeping the prints visible even when lights in the room are off. I use this with my two printers and the webcams installed and it has been super nice to not have to keep my office light on all night.

It is quite literally a night and day difference in seeing the prints on my Ender 3! I don't have the best room lighting where it's set up, so this was a huge improvement. Note that some of the reviews complain about having issues with a "hot end light". The manufacturer has removed that part since it was causing so many issues. But, I'd say the side mounted LEDs still provide plenty of light, especially since it's not blocked by the hot end like top lights are. Note that the product pictures seem to show a very short wire between the 2 LED strips. What you get really has enough wire to make it across the top between the sides.Several installation suggestions based on my experience with an Ender 3:- Don't forget to print the switch holder before you shut down your printer to install this. Some people complained about it breaking. I used PLA+ with the recommended 15% infill and it slid/snapped in just fine.- The LED strips have what looks to be a 3M adhesive backing, but don't peel it off at all. The lights just rest inside the side V-slots below where the wheels travel.- I didn't actually have to take the top bar off my printer. I gently wiggled the LED strips into each side channel and slid them down to the bottom. It took a little time, but was probably lots less than dismantling the top bar and having to make sure it was square again.- The instructions show installing it so the switch is on the right side (side with the power supply and control panel). However, the wire between the switch and the power supply is long enough to install on the left side if that's more convenient for usage. Plus it can be installed on the side of the top bar instead of just the top like their pictures. (I have a filament dryer installed on top for dispensing)- I printed out a "snap on V-slot cover" to hide the wire up underneath the top bar between the LED strips. Makes it a lot cleaner instead of a wire dangling down across. (205mm was the perfect length). I also printed out another V-slot cover (200+180=380 total) for the wire going down the left front side instead of using the provided sleeve and having to feed the wire through it.To help you find things:Switch holder: on Thingiverse, search for "5384261" and find the "LED switch base" by HumhumWangSnap on V-slot cover (the one I used): on Thingiverse, search for "3890851" and find "V-Slot snap on cover Ender 3 - CR-10"Youtube install video (which still shows the hot end light): search for "Dual Led Strip Ender 3/Ender 3 PRO/Ender 3 V2". There's a 2nd similarly named video, but it only shows connecting up to the power supply.

Seems a little home-made. "Just stuff it in the channels of the aluminum extrusion, it''l be fine", seems kinda janky. But it works fine. Recommended.

The built in overhead light is really nice but the part is in the shadow of the printhead most of the time, so I added the LED light kit in the Z axis tracks. It was really easy to get them in place and all the hardware and wiring that was necessary was included. I couldn't be happy leaving a good design alone, so I had to hardwire it into the switch that control the overhead light as well, so they both come on together. It was definitely worth the very reasonable cost. I also chose to install the strips without disassembling the gantry. Easy enough to flex into the track. I also chose to stick them down and not have them float. This is easy to do if you pull a small tail of the paper loose from the top end strip before the put it in the track. When the strip is where it belongs, just pull the paper tail as you move down the strip, pressing it to the back of the track.

This is an excellent lighting system that illuminates all critical areas of the print - especially if you have a pi cam. I highly recommend that you crimp or solder some wire connectors before attaching the wires to the power supply. Also, be sure to do the following BEFORE installing this:Switch holder: thing #5384261. I printed mine at 100% infill.V-Slot snap on covers: thing #3890851. I printed three of these at 0% infill (so they snap in) and increased to 205mm. Of course, you can simply trim these down. One cover goes on the top extrusion to keep the wires tucked up and away and the other two go to behind your gantry to keep the wires tucked away so the X doesn't bind up on the wire. Trim down as necessary.

it has a very precise fit leaving zero room for error, even giving the impression that it won't fit at all.The few installation instructions I had at my disposal, --- partially due to the fact that my PC does not have the ability to read QR codes, and the YouTube link was not otherwise provided, --- implied that the sticky-tape on the back of the LED strip needed to be removed before sliding down into the roller-grove on the printer's vertical supports. This proved impossible because the back was now sticky making the strips difficult to slide. The only other way to overcome this issue was to remove the head-travel bar and press them into each side.If it had been future-proofed, --- specifically by having each LED strip as an independent part, --- my problems would have ended there. But, installing as demonstrated, the wiring conflicted with my bowden extruder (&c.) making it impossible to put the head-travel bar back on. Fortunately, my printer is only single z-drive, so I did manage to reassemble the printer with the LEDs by removing the opposing vertical support and threading it along with the connected wires through the rollers attaching to my extruder's mounting bracket, and narrowly inserting it into it's proper rollers before reattachment, --- a procedure which should never have been necessary, and means that this printer will never come apart again without cutting the adjoining wires on this product.Additionally, the bracket for the switch is DIY (not physically provided by the manufacturer), meaning that a working printer must available to acquire the bracket. This may not be an uncommon assumption for such products, but it is an oversight where consumers like me are concerned: I acquired this product to help me get this, my only printer, working by illuminating my subject matter, not because I had working printer that I was trying to showcase.