Polymaker PolyCast Filament 1.75mm for Investment Casting 0.75kg, 3D Printing Filament for Lost Wax Investment Casting, Similar to Wax Filament for Metal Casting Plaster Cleanly Burn Out

yet to try this stuff. but i love the concept and everything came looking as advertised. if it's no good I promise I'll be back to say so. but I suspect it's going to be great

Prints really well! Was able to cast complex geometries. Very little ash, if any.

It prints well at .10 on my Prusa Mk3. I will warn you that it absorbs moisture very quickly. If you don't have a filament dryer you will not will have unusable filament by the third print.

Prints easy enough, my spool came badly damaged hense the 4 star. I respooled it so I guess it's not the end of the world but it was smashed to the point that respooling was difficult.This doesn't bother me as much as I would have respooled it for my ams anyways.Seems to print best at 180-190f anything higher and you'll heatsoak a jam on extraction standard bambu textured pei bed temps seem to work fine. I'm also in a colder climate and it's in my garage.Printed on an x1c with a. 4mm nozzle I'll be trying a. 2 mm later.Haven't burned anything out yet, but just heating it up I can tell it's a pretty clean burn.Does leave like a yellowish tinge on my hot end housing and vents after printing but it doesn't seem to affect functionality.

This filament DOES NOT LIKE being printed above about 195°C (strings EVERYWHERE by 205 & chars by 220), so you have to keep your extrusion rate under tight control if you aren't using a volcano or goliath hotend.Besides that, just be wary of the shrinkage as it starts to melt (broke off some small, deep holes in my first couple investment casting attempts, leaving weird random vids in the finished pour) & be sure to keep your final burnout temperature for long enough for 100% of the filament to burn out & you can get some really nice results.

First, it's sticky when it prints. It will pull off detail from the previous layer. Lowering the temperature and slowing the print helped. I got the best print results at 195C at 5mm/s. Yeah, snail slow.Second, and this is what makes it worthless. It doesn't burn out. It went trough a standard 8 hour burn out cycle spending 3h at 735C and left a black crusty material at the gate and inside the mold. I had two flasks. I vacuum cast metal into the first and ended up with a metal sprue. The mold didn't fill. The second I burned out a second time but the crud was still there so I didn't bother casting. I'll try burning it out a third time.I've burned out regular PLA. A single burn out is so so but two full burn out cycles works well. Other than being a lot more expensive and more difficult to print this stuff has nothing going for it.Don't waste your money.

This PLA leaves no/little ash or remains during lost PLA casting. I tried to get creative and use this with a brass pour on top of the PLA without melting it out beforehand, just to see what would happen. The PLA material remained and only the top had been melted. Don't judge, I was curious.

This product burned out 100% it looks like. Other Poly products like polymax and polysmooth will print so much better. But these other polys will not burn clean for casting. Polycast will burn clean. You will get ash from the others. I have used at least 10 rolls and getting the settings right is still an ongoing process. I am now using 60 degrees C, for the bed and after 5 layers going up to 75. this will keep the part stuck. When the bed cools off the part will break off. Prints well enough to get a good looking casting. You can sand the part to get lines out. Put it in polisher for a smooth finish. Using the prints for lost wax casting. If you are using for silicon casting or epoxy cast maybe use a better printing product like polymax. REX