Universal Car Door Lock Vehicle Keyless Entry System Auto Remote Central Kit with Control Box

Instructions seem unclear at first glance, but becomes simple once you identify how your locking system works. The module is small enough to be ziptied behind your dash's kick panel for a hidden install. It definitely feels cheaper overall than an OEM counterpart but that's to be expected when you're paying essentially nothing for something that is known to work well. Range is about 20 ft, which is more than enough for most. Remotes have a recessed portion for labels or stickers.For my USDM 2007 Honda Fit, the door locks work by shorting one of two pins to ground (thereby making it a negative system). To install in a Fit, just take your cover off the door (underside of the armrest only), and find the wires going to the switch. Next, pop off the plastic panel on the rocker, the specific panel being the one encompassing the hood release lever. There will be a connector underneath. Match the colors of the window lock rocker switch wires to the ones on the connector, using a multimeter to verify it. The larger black wire on the connector is NOT ground, rather this would be the smaller little black wire in the middle (again, you want to check with a multimeter to verify you have the right one). Simply connect the wires to the module using the provided instructions and it will work greatly.

I wanted to added remote entry to my 80's GM Project Car... It has factory power locks and remote hatch release so for the price, and features this unit seemed to fit my needs. I looked at other products and wanted a key fob that had a separate button for the hatch/trunk so I settled on this unit...Installed in a 1983 Camaro..First get a service manual for your vehicle (cheap from Ebay). It'll tell you what wires to hook up, where they are, etc.As the top review stated - toss out the instructions... They are about useless.Hook the red power led up to a constant 12v source.Black wire is ground. Find a good, clean, ground. Don't simply tap into an existing ground.Brown wire, this is for the parking lights... only one is used for my Camaro. Hooked into the corresponding Brown Wire (found in the service manual) under the drivers' side of dash by the C100 harness.Door Looks... GM uses POSITIVE looks (at least in the 80s). So when you move the factory lock switch (Lock/Unlock) voltages flows through the factory switch...So on this unit you connect the yellow and yellow/black wire together, and then connect this to a constant 12 volt source (not switched, or only hot when the ignition is on). You might want to add an inline fuse too (30 amp). Don't get lazy and use crimp connectors, wire tape, etc. Solder the connections, use heat shrink tape and wires ties to make strong reliable connections.Then the white and the white/black get spliced one of the existing lock switches.White/Black is to open the lock. White is to close the lock.On the 80's Camaro - the factory relays are located on the drivers' side, behind the kick panel, under the dash.. Easy to get to, and this is where I tapped into the factory harness.The Blue wire in the factory harness is open, so the White was added here.The Black wire in the factory harness is unlock White/Back was added here.Don't cut the harness - simply strip back some insulation and then wrap the new wires around the exposed wires, solder, tape, and then wire tie! You will thank me for doing the job correctly later..That will get your doors to lock/unlock and parking lights to flash..The hatch? well this is where the product or at least the unit I have sucks!The Blue wire is a negative signal, and GM used a positive signal to open.I even emailed the seller and the confirmed...So I had to ad a relay... I keep them in stock..So back under the dash...Grab a 30 amp relay, flip it over and the tabs are labeled..87 is the output tab to the hatch release.86 and 30 are wired together (again use good wire techniques) and these both go to a constant 12 volt source. I also added a 30 amp inline fuse too.85 is the trigger - so the blue wire from the unit gets hooked up here.Once that is all wired up - you should be able to open the hatch/trunk.For Camaros the hatch wire is a single connector also under the drivers' side dash by the fuse panel. The wire runs down right by the power door lock relays..NOW - maybe my unit is defective? BUT AFTER ALL THAT, NO HATCH RELEASE!!!I was soo frustrated! I double and triple checked my wiring... STILL NOT WORKING.I even swapped relays... NOTHING..THEN I simply grounded tab 85 with the relay install, and the hatch/trunk worked.So I knew it was the unit itself...and not my install.So the reviews about faulty trunk release features is true... At least with my unit..Over all the product works. You need to have specific knowledge of your vehicle, added parts, use of correct wiring techniques, and most important PAITENCE!I did not contact the seller to ask for a replacement... since they are listed out of stock.Eventually I might revisit this and see if I can get a replacement unit?Good luck guys and gals with your install adventure!****Update to the Trunk Relase Saga!****Customer Support comes through again... I contacted them regarding the trunk release issue..They stated please hold the trunk release button down for 3 seconds.. The instructions never mentioned this? (as we all know the instructions leave a lot to the imagination). So back out the garage, hit the trunk button on the keyfob and started counting... One Mississippi, Two Mississippi, Three Mississippi.... Click, and the hatch pops opens! Hell Yes!In a world of instant gratification, I expected the trunk to open immediately (after my parking lights flashed)... Nope Patience is needed...Overall for a pretty good little control box to bring my 80s model Camaro into the 1990s... Yes you need an extra relay, as well as some electrical essentials to hook it up. Don't expect a plug and play install...And for all of you that keep asking; "will it work on..." You would need to do your own research... and this unit does is send basic signals.. Get the factory service manual and figure it out!

I have an early 90's Toyota that does not have keyless entry, although it does have central locking. I figured I would have to find a Toyota keyless entry system, which would likely cost $100.00 or so used. I did a search on Amazon and was pleasantly surprised to see this item. It seemed like a cheap option, but I was intrigued by its 4 star rating with over 100 ratings/reviews.I read some of the reviews that cautioned that the installation instructions were virtually worthless, which is somewhat true unless you are familiar with reading wiring diagrams. With the diagrams provided in the photos of this product and the various information gathered from the reviews/Q&A I prepared myself for the installation. Fortunately, I have an Factory Repair Manual Electrical Diagram for my Toyota, which told me which wires to tap into.My installation of this keyless entry module was significantly more involved because I decided that I wanted to isolate the driver's side unlock action to unlock by the first unlock signal from the keyless fob. It is a feature that most factory keyless entry vehicles have, where the first press of the unlock button will unlock the driver's side door ONLY. An additional press of the unlock button on the keyless entry fob will subsequently trigger all the doors to unlock. I was aware that this unit is not designed to offer that particularly feature, which I definitely wanted.I accomplished this by utilizing 5 basic automotive SPDT relays and a single setting based timer relay. Now if I press the unlock button the driver's side door will unlock. If I press the unlock button on the fob again, within 5 seconds, all the other doors will also unlock. To me this additional complexity of installation was worth it to me, but doubt many others would consider the hassle worthwhile. The additional cost was about $25.00 for the relays. Also, the time of designing the new circuits and installing the relays was significantly more lengthy.All in all, I would highly recommend this unit. I would consider this purchase well worth the hassle and price if it lasts more than a year. I honestly question its long term durability and specifically installed the unit in such a way that I can easily replace the module if it were to go bad.The 4 star rating comes from the fact that the wiring included is terrible. Unbelievably thin wiring. I would prefer to pay a little more for better wiring. This aspect of the product actually caused the installation to take much longer than it otherwise would have.On final note, I wholeheartedly agree with many reviewers in suggesting professional installation if you do not know how to read electrical diagrams. I can only imagine the additional frustrations of trying to identify wire. I personally prepared myself weeks ahead of getting this unit before attempting the install. I knew exactly what wires I would tap into. Do yourself a favor and either prepare yourself or prepare to pay a professional.

Some Technical know how is needed. But this unit works great on my 1991 Nissan 240sx.